LEARN EN­TRELAC CRO­CHET

Love the look of ad­join­ing squares, but hate the idea of sewing them to­gether? En­trelac is the per­fect join-as-you-go so­lu­tion. Each square is worked into the square be­low, so there’s lit­tle to no sewing.

Crochet! - - Contents - By Brenda Bourg

Quickly learn this ex­cit­ing squares tech­nique.

Have you ever won­dered how a cro­cheter had the pa­tience to make elab­o­rate en­trelac afghans? Af­ter all, with all those col­ors it must take hours just to sew in the tails! The truth is, it’s ac­tu­ally one of the eas­i­est ways to make mul­ti­col­ored afghans— each row or round has only two ends to weave in!

En­trelac cro­chet is made with Tu­nisian Sim­ple Stitch worked on a reg­u­lar cro­chet hook. It uses so few stitches that there is no need for a Tu­nisian hook. This tech­nique cre­ates stun­ning afghans, scarfs and cowls, and it’s a great stash buster too!

There are sev­eral dif­fer­ent ways to work en­trelac. In this ar­ti­cle we will ex­plore work­ing en­trelac in rows and as a rec­tan­gle.

Like all Tu­nisian cro­chet, en­trelac cro­chet is worked with the right side al­ways fac­ing. Never turn the work. Also, be sure to work the slip stitches loosely. You’ll have to come back and stitch into those slip stitches, so you don’t want them too tight!

To be­gin an en­trelac swatch, you’ll need to chain a mul­ti­ple of 11 plus 12; for this sam­ple swatch, chain 34. Next, in­sert the hook in the sec­ond chain from the hook, yarn over and pull up a loop. Con­tinue to yarn over and pull up a loop in each of the next five chains. There should now be seven loops on the hook.

Now you’ll need to make a re­turn pass. To work the re­turn pass, yarn over (see Photo 1) and pull through two loops in each stitch across. There should be one loop left on the hook at the end of the row.

To work rows 2–5, in­sert the hook from right to left un­der the next ver­ti­cal bar (see Photo 2), yarn over and pull up a loop in each of the next five bars.

Next, in­sert the hook in the next un­worked chain of the foun­da­tion chain and draw up one loop (see Photo 3).

There should be seven loops on the hook. Re­peat the re­turn pass just as you did for row 1. You will al­ways have one loop left on the hook when you com­plete a re­turn pass.

Row 6 fin­ishes the lit­tle square swatch. Work­ing un­der the next ver­ti­cal bar from right to left, yarn over, pull up a loop and loosely slip stitch in each of next five ver­ti­cal bars; then slip stitch in the next chain of the foun­da­tion chain. There will be one loop on the hook.

Next, pull up six more loops in the foun­da­tion chain to be­gin square 2. There should be seven loops on the hook. Work the re­turn pass just as you did in square 1. Con­tinue work­ing square 2 rows 2– 6 the same as for square 1.

Square 3 is worked the same as squares 1 and 2 un­til you get to the last

stitch of row 6. In row 6, pull the fi­nal loop through the last un­worked chain in the foun­da­tion chain and fas­ten off. Row 1 is com­plete, and you should now have three squares.

To be­gin row 2, join the yarn with a slip stitch in the cor­ner edge of square 1 in row 1 and chain 6 (see Photo 4).

Photo 4

Skip­ping the first chain, pull up a loop in each of the next five chains. Next, pull up a loop in same cor­ner where you joined the yarn with the slip stitch. Work the re­turn pass.

In rows 2–5 of square 1, con­tinue work­ing the for­ward and re­turn passes as es­tab­lished, pulling up the sev­enth loop from the side of the cor­re­spond­ing square in row 1 (see Photo 5).

Photo 5

Slip stitch in each stitch across in row 6, and as be­fore, the fi­nal slip stitch will be made in the top of square 1 in row 1.

To be­gin square 2, with one loop on the hook, work­ing down the side of square 1 in row 1, pull up five loops. Pull the sev­enth loop up in the side of the cor­re­spond­ing stitch in square 2 of row 1 (see Photo 6). Work the re­turn pass.

Photo 6

Rows 2– 6 are worked the same as for square 1 in row 2.

Square 3 is worked the same as square 2 in row 2.

You should now have three squares worked in row 2.

Square 4 is worked a lit­tle dif­fer­ently in row 2. Since there is no cor­re­spond­ing square to work the side stitch into, sim­ply pull up six loops across; seven loops should now be on the hook.

The re­turn pass is also a lit­tle dif­fer­ent for this row. To work the re­turn pass, yarn over and pull through one loop; then yarn over and pull through two loops in each stitch across. In row 6, slip stitch in each stitch across and fas­ten off. There should now be 4 squares in row 2.

We don’t want an in­crease in the be­gin­ning of row 3, so skip the first side of square 1 in row 2 and at­tach the yarn in the peak of the square 1 (see Photo 7).

Re­peat rows 1– 6 in square 2 of row 2 three times and then fas­ten off. You should have three squares in row 3. Don’t work the fi­nal side of square 4 in row 2 be­cause we don’t want to in­crease on the end of the swatch ei­ther

Photo 8

Con­tinue work­ing rows 2 and 3 un­til your pro­ject is the de­sired length.

Mak­ing a pro­ject in a rec­tan­gu­lar shape isn’t much dif­fer­ent than work­ing

An­niesYarnShop.com

row, in­sert hook un­der both strands of st, yo, pull lp through. Work loops off hook (work lps off hook): Yo, pull through 1 lp on hook (see A of il­lus­tra­tion), [yo, pull through 2 lps on hook (see B of il­lus­tra­tion)] across un­til 1 lp rem on hook. Last lp on hook counts as first st of next row.

SCARF First Strip Square 1

Row 1 (RS): Ch 265;

A. Pull up lp in 2nd ch from hook and in each of next 5 chs, leav­ing rem chs un­worked (7 lps on hook);

B. TRP (see Spe­cial Stitches).

Row 2:

A. TSS (see Spe­cial Stitches) in each of next 5 bars, pull up lp in next un­worked ch on foun­da­tion ch (7 lps on hook);

B. TRP.

Rows 3–5: Rep row 2.

Row 6: Loosely sl st in each of next 5 sts as if work­ing TSS, sl st in next ch on foun­da­tion ch.

Squares 2–23

Row 1:

A. Pull up lps in each of next 6 chs on foun­da­tion ch (7 lps on hook);

B. TRP.

Rows 2– 6: Rep rows 2– 6 of Square 1.

Square 24

Rows 1–5: Rep rows 1–5 of Square 2.

Row 6: Loosely sl st in each of next 5 sts as if work­ing TSS, sl st in last ch on foun­da­tion ch.

Fas­ten off.

2nd Strip Square 1

Get­ting started: With RS fac­ing, join (see Pat­tern Notes) in end of row 1 on Square 1 of pre­vi­ous Strip (see Pat­tern Notes);

Row 1 (RS): Ch 6;

A. Pull up lp in 2nd ch from hook and in each of next 4 chs, pull up lp in same st as join (7 lps on hook);

B. TRP.

Rows 2–5:

A. TSS in each of next 5 sts, pull up lp in next ad­ja­cent row end on same Square on pre­vi­ous Strip (7 lps on hook);

B. TRP.

Row 6: Loosely sl st in each of next 5 sts as if work­ing TSS, sl st in first sl st on Row 6 of same Square on pre­vi­ous Strip.

Squares 2–23

Row 1:

A. Pull up a lp in each of next 5 sts, pull up lp in first row end on ad­ja­cent Square on pre­vi­ous Strip (7 lps on hook);

B. TRP.

Rows 2– 6: Rep rows 2– 6 of Square 1.

Square 24

Rows 1–5: Rep rows 1–5 of Square 2.

Row 6: Loosely sl st in each of next 5 sts as if work­ing TSS, sl st in first sl st of row 6 of same square on pre­vi­ous Strip. Fas­ten off.

3rd Strip

Get­ting started: With RS fac­ing, join in first sl st on row 6 of Square 1 of pre­vi­ous Strip.

Squares 1–23

Row 1 (RS):

A. Pull up lp in each of next 5 sts, pull up lp in first row end on ad­ja­cent Square on pre­vi­ous Strip (7 lps on hook);

B. TRP.

Rows 2–5:

A. 5 TSS, pull up lp in next ad­ja­cent row end on same Square on pre­vi­ous Strip (7 lps on hook);

B. TRP.

Row 6: Loosely sl st in each of next 5 sts as if work­ing TSS, sl st in first sl st on row 6 of same Square on pre­vi­ous Strip.

Square 24

Row 1 (RS):

A. Pull up lp in each of next 6 sts. (7 lps on hook)

B. work lps off hook (see Spe­cial Stitches).

Rows 2–5:

A. TSS across (7 lps on hook);

B. work lps off hook.

Row 6: Loosely sl st in each st across as if work­ing TSS. Fas­ten off.

4th Strip Work as for 2nd Strip.

5th Strip Work as for 3rd Strip.

6th Strip Work as for 2nd Strip.

Assem­bly Sew ends of Scarf tog to form ring.

Bor­der Note: Bor­der is worked to fill V-shaped Spa­ces along top and bot­tom edges of Scarf.

Sp 1

Row 1 (RS): Join in last sl st on top point of any Square;

A. Pull up lp in each of next 5 sts along side of same Square, pull up lp in end of first row on ad­ja­cent Square (7 lps on hook);

B. [yo, pull through 2 lps on hook] 4 times, yo, pull through 3 lps on hook.

Row 2:

A. Sk next ver­ti­cal bar, 4 TSS, pull up lp in end of next row on ad­ja­cent Square (6 lps on hook); B. [yo, pull through 2 lps on hook] 3 times, yo, pull through 3 lps on hook.

Row 3:

A. Sk next ver­ti­cal bar, 3 TSS, pull up lp in next row on ad­ja­cent Square (5 lps on hook);

B. [yo, pull through 2 lps on hook] twice, yo, pull through 3 lps on hook.

Row 4:

A. Sk next ver­ti­cal bar, 2 TSS, pull up lp in next row on ad­ja­cent Square (4 lps on hook);

B. yo, pull through 2 lps on hook, yo, pull through 3 lps on hook.

Row 5:

A. Sk next ver­ti­cal bar, TSS, pull up lp in next row on ad­ja­cent Square (3 lps on hook);

B. yo, pull through all lps on hook.

Row 6: Loosely sl st in top of next Square.

Sps 2–24

Row 1 (RS):

A. Pull up lp in each of next 5 sts along side of same Square, pull up lp in end of first row on next ad­ja­cent Square (7 lps on hook);

B. [yo, pull through 2 lps on hook] 4 times, yo, pull through 3 lps on hook.

Rows 2– 6: Rep rows 2– 6 for First Space. At end of last row, join in first st of First Space. Fas­ten off. Rep Bor­der on op­po­site side of Scarf.

FIN­ISH­ING

Weave in ends. Block lightly, if de­sired.

Photo 2

Photo 3

Photo 1

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