IN VINO VERITAS

Field and Stream - - CAMPFIRE -

This dish wants wine, but it’s finicky about what type. In Italy’s Pied­mont, where the dish orig­i­nates, you’re likely to find it ac­com­pa­nied by a white Gavi wine— the 2015 Tenuta La March­esa will pro­vide that lush Pied­mon­tese ef­fect. State­side, both the Cas­toro Cel­lars 2015 es­tate-grown sauvi­gnon blanc, from Paso Robles, Calif., and the 2013 J. Lohr Ar­royo Vista chardon­nay have a briny char­ac­ter to them, which hooks up smoothly with the tuna sauce. —J.M.

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