IN VINO VERITAS
This dish wants wine, but it’s finicky about what type. In Italy’s Piedmont, where the dish originates, you’re likely to find it accompanied by a white Gavi wine— the 2015 Tenuta La Marchesa will provide that lush Piedmontese effect. Stateside, both the Castoro Cellars 2015 estate-grown sauvignon blanc, from Paso Robles, Calif., and the 2013 J. Lohr Arroyo Vista chardonnay have a briny character to them, which hooks up smoothly with the tuna sauce. —J.M.