Coco Pazzo

Forbes - - Fact & Comment -

160 Prince St., at Thomp­son St. (Tel.: 917261-6318)

Pino Luongo, pro­pri­etor of this up­dated ver­sion of the UES orig­i­nal, brought Tus­can fare to NYC in the mid-1980s. Of­fer­ings sound clas­sic but are pre­pared with up­dated cre­ativ­ity. Be­gin with in­salata car­ciofi, a light salad of raw baby ar­ti­chokes, Parmi­giano and fen­nel tossed in olive oil and le­mon. The oven­roasted cala­mari is served with thin fried zuc­chini. The pas­tas are per­fec­tion, and the co­to­letta is a scrump­tious ver­sion of a breaded veal cut­let. Fin­ish with tangerine souf­flé and a glass of limon­cello.

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