GA Voice - - Art -

Gio’s Chicken Amal­fi­tano

1099 Hem­phill Ave. , At­lanta, GA 30318 Good choices: At­lanta is join­ing the lat­est na­tional trend: restau­rants whose en­tire menus are built around chicken.

Gio’s, next door to the owner’s pizze­ria, An­tico, features seven dishes cooked in Ital­ian style. My fave so far: Sor­rento Lemon roasted with fa­mous Amalfi lemons, wild oregano and olive oil. Sec­ond fave: The Scarpiello adds sausage, sweet red pep­pers, cipolline and red-wine vine­gar to the chicken.

All the chicken (huge por­tions priced $15-$17) is served in big in­di­vid­ual bowls to which roasted potato wedges and bread are added. The gi­gan­tic pasta bowls are over­whelm­ing for one per­son, so my ad­vice is to avoid them ex­cept for take-out. If you have room for dessert – you won’t – a few Ital­ian clas­sics like can­no­lis are avail­able. man, Alex Wan, wants to take ac­tion that will close most of the so-called sleazy busi­nesses along that rau­cous street. It is, so to speak, about shut­ting down the freak show.

“I’m not say­ing the neigh­bor­hood doesn’t sup­port the clos­ings or that so-called gen­tri­fi­ca­tion isn’t in­evitable. But it is a prime ex­am­ple of the way gay peo­ple them­selves of­ten lead the way to­ward dis­ap­pear­ing the odd, es­pe­cially the sex­u­ally odd.”

Robert nod­ded. “Oh yeah, I learned 10 years ago that the city in Amer­ica that makes the most ar­rests for pub­lic sex is West Hol­ly­wood — the only city in Amer­ica al­most en­tirely run by gay peo­ple.”

“Sex is the the­ater of all hu­man ex­pe­ri­ence,” Lee said. “There’s not a per­son on the planet who is not driven by it and who doesn’t en­gage in some­thing strange and freaky when he lets him­self go. But gay peo­ple, long op­pressed for the very na­ture of their love and sex, now eas­ily still turn that on them­selves….and oth­ers.”

“So you’re here in this world to pre­serve the freak. You’re like Hed­wig, right?”

“Ex­actly,” Lee said, dig­ging into his bowl of chicken. “I will be set­ting up the House of Gay Hu­man Oddities on Cheshire Bridge.”

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