Crav­ing more at ‘Bread & But­ter­fly’

GA Voice - - Eating ny Words -

“’Crawl­ing at your feet,’ said the Gnat (Alice drew her feet back in some alarm), ‘you may ob­serve a Bread-and-but­ter-fly. Its wings are thin slices of bread-and-but­ter, its body is a crust, and its head is a lump of sugar.’”

You won’t find in­sects on the menu of Billy Allin’s new restau­rant,

Bread and But­ter­fly (290 El­iz­a­beth St., 678-515-4536),

but you’ll find plenty of play­ful­ness wor­thy of the quote above from Lewis Car­roll’s trippy kids’ book, “Through the Look­ing Glass.”

Some his­tory: Allin’s orig­i­nal restau­rant,

Cakes & Ale (155 Sy­camore St., 404-3777994)

in De­catur, is a foodie fa­vorite. He opened the restau­rant 10 years ago, and it was among the city’s first to rely on un­com­pli­cated, pointed fla­vors of sourced, of­ten lo­cal in­gre­di­ents.

Last year, he be­gan a thought­ful ex­pan­sion when he opened the ad­dic­tive

Proof Bakeshop (100 Hurt St., 678-705-3905)

across from the In­man Park MARTA sta­tion. It serves a lim­ited lunch and break­fast menu, in­clud­ing maybe the best Monte Cristo I’ve ever eaten. The main deal is the deca­dent pas­tries. Just go.

The new But­ter­fly will in­stantly re­mind you of a Paris bistro. Large win­dows are trimmed in dark green. Round ta­bles and a dark-blue bar are topped with white mar­ble. A black ban­quette stretches across a bright green, tiled bar. The only thing that doesn’t re­mind me of a Paris bistro is the seat­ing. You don’t have to sit knee-to-knee with your neigh­bor.

I’ve had one din­ner with friends at But­ter­fly. The menu is mainly share­able small plates. Among those on our ta­ble were sliced Cherry Belle and D’Avi­gnon radishes with im­pos­si­bly rich Devon cream but­ter and crum­bled, cured egg yolk. This was the only dish I don’t rate an A. It was all crunch with no pep­pery zing. On the other hand, a side of braised Hakurei turnips was heav­enly. You get a ten­der, barely crisp taste that’s typ­i­cally earthy but fol­lowed by a strong shot of sweet­ness. A three-salad plate fea­tures lentils, beets, and cel­ery root, all el­e­gantly mar­ried to in­di­vid­ual sea­son­ings.

Three en­trees were avail­able the night of my visit, in­clud­ing a moan-wor­thy burger with caramelized onions, Swiss cheese, mustard, and mayo with a side of thin, su­per-crisp fries. An­other friend and I chose an amaz­ing half-chicken anointed in crème- fraîche and then roasted and served thor­oughly juicy, with lightly sea­soned skin. My table­mate com­plained that his chicken was not fully cooked be­cause of a bit of pink near the bone. I had no prob­lem with that, but cook­ing fancy, well-bred chick­ens does seem to be chal­leng­ing. They can be a bit stringy, es­pe­cially if over­cooked.

Next time I visit, I plan to or­der the red snap­per baked in parch­ment served with olive rel­ish and beurre blanc.

Dessert? I knew I’d be wad­dling from the ta­ble, but I can never re­sist pecan pie. This one was made with choco­late chips.

I can’t wait to try break­fast, lunch, and week­end brunch here too. Allin’s per­fec­tion­ism and a stel­lar staff on the floor and in the kitchen will make this as pop­u­lar as Cakes & Ale, no doubt.

Cliff Bo­s­tock, PhD, is a long­time At­lanta food critic and for­mer psy­chother­a­pist who now prac­tices life coach­ing for cre­ative types; 404-518-4415.

‘Bread & But­ter­fly’s’ Burger Améri­cain served on a brioche bun with Swiss, caramelized onion, grain mustard & may­on­naise.

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