2. A GOOD SWITCH.
If your LED light is going to fail, chances are it will be because of the switch. Buy a better light for a more reliable switch. Leave the $5 light in the kitchen utility drawer.
I use several flashlights more than some of the others I own:
STREAMLIGHT PROTAC 1L-AA. The great thing is that you can power it with either one CR123A lithium battery or one AA alkaline battery without any modifications. (350 lumens on “high”; MSRP: $68)
STREAMLIGHT PROTAC 1AAA. This flashlight provides only 70 lumens on “high,” but that’s more than I need most times. Its ultra-thin barrel makes it the easiest to carry. (MSRP: $48)
HDS SYSTEMS EDC TACTICAL. This light features a rotary tail end that controls the brightness settings and “constant on” or “momentary on” settings. From any of the “constant on” settings, pressing the power button takes you instantly to full brightness. Release the button, and the light goes back to your previous setting. This is an expensive light, but it’s up to professional use in every way. (325 lumens on “high”; MSRP: $299)
THE POWERTAC CADET GEN II. In addition to the power switch in the end cap, this light has a separate mode button on the side of the light that’s very handy. (492 lumens on “high”; MSRP: $68.95)
Some of the lights currently used by the author include (from the left) the Streamlight Protac 1L-1AA; Streamlight Protac 1AAA; Powertac Cadet Gen II; and the HDS Systems EDC Tactical.