HILuxury - - IN THE LOOP - —by C.C.

You don’t need to be Bril­lat-Savarin to ap­pre­ci­ate the nostal­gia melded into this menu. Call this foodie throw­back the is­lands’ take on Mar­cel Proust’s “Made­line.” For fans of chef Shel­don Simeon’s hearty is­land fare, TINROOF Maui moves com­fort-food fa­vorites up­per class. Chris­tened “a new gen­er­a­tion mom & pop shop,” the savoir-faire at TINROOF—the love project of the chef and his wife, Jan­ice—is, in its very essence, a tasty trib­ute to Simeon’s Hilo up­bring­ing. Rem­i­nisc­ing about Hilo’s daily rain, in writ­ing: “the sound of rain on a tin roof is what re­minds us of home,” you’ll cer­tainly feel at home with Simeon here, too, as close con­nec­tions to farm­ers, ar­ti­sans and other lo­cal pur­vey­ors en­hance the menu’s au­then­tic­ity. Pork belly, roasted and fried and then topped with tomato-onion lomi; Mochiko Chicken thighs, mar­i­nated overnight in gin­ger-sake shoyu and then laced in mochiko bat­ter; head-on gar­lic shrimp over wa­ter­cress and rice; wok-fried, gin­ger-scal­lion chop steak; Ban­chan; plus, daily fresh fish—you’ll feel as though you’ve en­tered Simeon’s child­hood kitchen, a hos­pitable Hawai­ian hale. Two scoops rice? Check. Sa­ti­at­ing, six-minute eggs? Poké? Check. Check. Clas­sics, too, merit a cre­ative twist. ‘Ulu Mac Salad, for ex­am­ple, is pre­pared with diced bread­fruit, cel­ery, eggs and the works. Or opt for the Beet Box—roasted and flash-fried with pick­led, curly kale—or Pono Fries laced with lilko‘i or mango. Shar­ing his par­ent’s love for good com­pany and cui­sine, at TINROOF, you’ll have your cake—and eat it, too. Sa­vor Choco­late Birth­day Cake Bib­ingka, a mar­velous as­sem­blage of choco­late-but­ter mochi bites, topped with “magic” peanut but­ter, rainbow birth­day sprin­kles, dulce de leche, and Oval­tine whip. (Yes, as ref­er­enced in A Christ­mas Story). Simeon’s warm re­cep­tion will trans­port you back to his child­hood din­ner ta­ble, where pas­sion­ate feast­ing likens the in­ti­macy of home. As the pit­ter pat­ter of rain­drops soothe us, and rich dishes warm our bel­lies, join the fam­ily for a com­mu­nal din­ing ex­pe­ri­ence. tin­roof­maui.com

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