Hot Rod - - The Easy Way & The Hard Way -

This mea­sure­ment is most crit­i­cal for the front wheels be­cause they need ad­di­tional clear­ance to swing out­side the width of the fend­ers while steer­ing. Mea­sure from the axle cen­ter­line to the bot­tom of the wheel arch. In gen­eral, the ra­dius of your tire (half its di­am­e­ter) shouldn’t ex­ceed this dis­tance. This mea­sure­ment, mi­nus the ra­dius of your wheel di­am­e­ter, gives you an es­ti­mate of what side­wall thick­ness you can fit. If push­ing the fit­ment of the wheel flush with the fen­der line, plac­ing a square to mock the wheel di­am­e­ter in ref­er­ence to a plumb bob (or in our case, a heavy socket tied to a worn-out USB ca­ble) is a way to dou­ble-check width and off­set; this is of­ten a re­quired mea­sure­ment in cus­tom wheel or­der­ing forms, in­clud­ing a mea­sure­ment to the in­ner fen­der.

[ Two more mea­sure­ments here: max­i­mum tire di­am­e­ter and width. We dou­bled the ver­ti­cal mea­sure­ment to see that our max­i­mum tire di­am­e­ter would be around 30 inches. With Los An­ge­les’ pot­holed roads for this daily driver, we wanted to err on the side of a tall side­wall and went with a 29-inch di­am­e­ter front and rear. [ A plumb bob is cru­cial to the mock-up process if you’re slot­ting in wide rollers. Here, our square sits at a 17-inch di­am­e­ter.

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