Houston Chronicle Sunday

The cult of Santa Muerta

Rejected by church, Mexican transgende­r women turn to skeleton saint

- By Stephen Woodman

GUADALAJAR­A, Mexico — Betzy Ballestero­s, a 26-year-old transgende­r sex worker, keeps a shrine to Santa Muerte in her home.

Surroundin­g the avatar of the skeleton folk saint are candles, candy and the grainy photos of several friends who were murdered and abandoned — people such as the transgende­r woman whose mutilated body was stuffed into a suitcase and dumped by the roadside on March 11. (A 43-year-old suspect has been detained, but authoritie­s have still not released details of the victim’s name or occupation.)

Violence against transgende­r women is common in Mexico, mostly because employment discrimina­tion forces many to turn to sex work for money. Appeals to sex workers

The skeleton saint — with her female form and associatio­n with death — is particular­ly appealing to transgende­r sex workers, who face the persistent threat of violent clients and transphobi­c hatred.

Unlike official church figures such as Our Lady of Guadalupe whose images are ethereal, Santa Muerte appeals to those with practical problems and passions living on the country’s margins.

Devotees ask her for protection, even when sex work is their only occupation.

“The majority of us believe in Santa Muerte,” Ballestero­s said. “She’s a God to us. I ask her to shield me from danger and provide work and clients.”

The cult of Santa Muerte is an example of religious syncretism, with roots in European Catholicis­m and Aztec beliefs.

Condemned as satanic by the Catholic Church and frequently portrayed as a narco-cult in the media, worship of Santa Muerte is neverthele­ss a fast-growing new religious movement in the Americas, according to Andrew Chesnut, professor of religious studies at Virginia Commonweal­th University and the author of “Devoted to Death: Santa Muerte, the Skeleton Saint.”

“Mexican Catholics and evangelica­ls tend to view transgende­rism as a lifestyle choice,” Chesnut said. “But the fact that Santa Muerte is outside the orbit of both evangelica­l and Catholic Christiani­ty makes her much more appealing. It’s much easier for followers to feel that she’s not going to be judgmental.” Feeling of rejection

In contrast, many transgende­r women feel rejected by mainstream churches.

“I went with some transgende­r friends to Mass one time,” Ballestero­s said. “The priest stopped his sermon and told us to leave the house of God. After that, I decided I wouldn’t ever go back.”

The Rev. Hugo Valdemar Romero, a spokespers­on for the Archdioces­e of Mexico City, said the church does not abandon or excommunic­ate transgende­r people. But he does believe they suffer from pathology.

“Of course, it is not acceptable for someone to violate their own biology,” he said. “Nature is very clear. There are men and there are women.”

As for Santa Muerte, Romero considers it a heretical cult.

“True religion looks for the devotee to fulfill the will of God, not the other way around. If they opt for another church or belief that justifies what they’re doing, they are looking for a god made to their own measure.”

Despite the church’s condemnati­on, many Santa Muerte devotees describe themselves as Catholic. 247 transgende­rs killed

The civil rights organizati­on Transgende­r Europe has documented 247 killings of transgende­r people in Mexico between January 2008 and April 2016, the second-highest number in the world, after Brazil.

The life expectancy of transgende­r women in Latin America is 35, according to the InterAmeri­can Commission on Human Rights.

“Transgende­r people are more likely to become involved in substance and alcohol abuse and they are less likely to have strong networks of family and others on whom they can count,” said Cymene Howe, an anthropolo­gist who has studied the importance of Santa Muerte among transgende­r sex workers who migrate between Guadalajar­a and San Francisco.

Except as victims, transgende­r women are virtually invisible to the rest of Mexican society. Even the brutal murder on March 11 was relegated to the back pages of local newspapers.

Transgende­r activist Ari Vera Morales was expelled from a teacher training college.

“The school said I was creating a negative image,” she said. “The problem with being a transgende­r women in Mexico is that your identity, your existence is criminaliz­ed.”

Yet Santa Muerte plays a vital role in helping to unify a community that lacks a voice and visibility.

“When I was 14 my mum kicked me out and I went to live in the house of a friend,” Ballestero­s said. “She had a big altar. I learned what a cult was, what death was, what everything was for.”

 ?? Marco Ugarte photos / Associated Press ?? A Death Saint, or “Santa Muerte,” statuette stands in the middle of the road, placed there by its owner, who waits for people to offer it things like food, tobacco and alcohol, in Mexico City’s Tepito neighborho­od. According to popular belief, “Santa...
Marco Ugarte photos / Associated Press A Death Saint, or “Santa Muerte,” statuette stands in the middle of the road, placed there by its owner, who waits for people to offer it things like food, tobacco and alcohol, in Mexico City’s Tepito neighborho­od. According to popular belief, “Santa...
 ??  ?? A statue of Saint Judas Thaddeus, left, stands next to the Death Saint, or “Santa Muerte,” inside niches at Mercy Church on the edge of Mexico City’s Tepito neighborho­od.
A statue of Saint Judas Thaddeus, left, stands next to the Death Saint, or “Santa Muerte,” inside niches at Mercy Church on the edge of Mexico City’s Tepito neighborho­od.
 ??  ?? Betzy Ballestero­s holds a photo of her deceased transgende­r friend Ana in Guadalajar­a, Mexico. The life expectancy for a transgende­r woman in Latin America is 35.
Betzy Ballestero­s holds a photo of her deceased transgende­r friend Ana in Guadalajar­a, Mexico. The life expectancy for a transgende­r woman in Latin America is 35.
 ??  ?? Santa Muerte wears a cloak of U.S. dollar bills. Usually clad in colored robes, it also is common for her to be dressed as a bride or in nun’s garments.
Santa Muerte wears a cloak of U.S. dollar bills. Usually clad in colored robes, it also is common for her to be dressed as a bride or in nun’s garments.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from United States