More Bodywork Tips for Your Jeep
Hammering steel and bending panels
Jeep Restoration in Huntsville, Utah, to bring you the tips and tricks to elevate your bodywork game. The subject used for this educational process is a supercool CJ-6A Tuxedo Park, but this information can help with any similar-era Jeep CJ restoration project.
This particular project started with the entire disassembly of the Jeep when it first rolled into the shop, and some frame repairs done with general shop tools (“Getting Straight,” Aug. ’17, page 54). After sandblasting the body, the sheetmetal that was too far gone was removed, and new panels made right here in the USA (“CJ Sheetmetal Work: Part 2,” Feb. ’18, page 60) were sourced as replacements. We even got the inside scoop on fabricating a rear quarter-panel from scratch (“Jeep CJ Bodywork Tips: Part 3,” April ’18, page 54).
All that’s left now before paint is final metal surface prep. Any good painter will tell you that your paintjob will only be as good as your prep work. We have already laid out a solid base to work with, but it’s still very much “rough around the edges,” as they say. Nothing a little body filler can’t fix though.
That’s right, the dreaded “B” word— Bondo. Almost every restored vehicle on the road has it somewhere. When it comes to Jeeps, after 20, 30, 40, 50-plus years on the road it’s almost guaranteed that there are not many f lat or fully intact panels left. We went to the guys at Quick Draw Jeep Restoration for some old-school body shop tricks that can help make your Jeep’s old body as true as the day it rolled out of the factory door.
We bring you even more bodywork finish tips from Jeep restoration specialists
This straight and clean old Jeep CJ is almost dry after its last round of wet sanding. It took a ton of man-hours to get this CJ-6A Jeep body into primer. For pro-level bodywork tips and tricks you can use at home, keep on reading to see how it’s...