Solid spot for sto­ries

Los Angeles Times - - TRAVEL - To read more about bik­ing, hik­ing and kayak­ing along Swe­den’s rocky west coast, go to www.latimes.com/swe den

ative mind and her half-dozen-plus nov­els, res­i­dents of Fjall­backa get knocked off on a reg­u­lar (and some­times grue­some) ba­sis.

Fjall­backa boomed in the late 1800s when her­ring filled the wa­ters off­shore, tour leader and res­i­dent Asa Cun­niff told me as we walked up a street past small, col­or­ful homes.

It be­came a pop­u­lar va­ca­tion spot for Scan­di­na­vians early in the last cen­tury and con­tin­ues to draw visi­tors, many of whom come to see the 3,000-year-old Tanum rock carv­ings, a UNESCO World Her­itage site north of town.

At the top of the hill, Cun­niff and I paused in front of the vil­lage church, built from hand­some red gran­ite. From there, we walked to the har­bor where, by chance, we met Lack­berg’s mother, Gun­nel, who was put­ter­ing around her water­side cot­tage.

Camilla Lack­berg was raised in Fjall­backa, and her par­ents were friends of Bergman’s and Sch­midt’s. A fam­ily photo shows the ac­tress hold­ing baby Camilla.

At the dock across from In­grid Bergman Square, we boarded a boat that took us for a cray­fish feast at Vade- roar­nas Vard­shus ( www. vaderoarna.com), an inn on one of the Weather Is­lands, about 30 min­utes west of Fjall­backa.

We traipsed up to a pi­lot’s look­out tower high above the pretty yel­low inn, which has 11 guest rooms, a sauna and a hot tub. Its res­tau­rant is Taste of West Swe­den-ac­cred­ited, which means it’s one of the re­gion’s top eater­ies. Be sure to ask for the mus­sel soup, laced with Co­gnac and cray­fish when they’re in sea­son.

travel@latimes.com

Brian E. Clark

THE VIL­LAGE OF FJALL­BACKA on Swe­den’s rocky west coast, as viewed from Vet­te­ber­get hill.

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