The Getty. The astounding architecture of The Center / 1200 Getty Dr / Brentwood / 310 440 7300 / closed Mon / alone is worth the schlep, but the Euro masters will impress. Ocean views and ancient Mediterranean art at The Villa / 17985 Pacific Coast Hwy / Pacific Palisades / 310 440 7300 / getty.edu / closed Tue / free entry / advance reservations required.
MOCA. Not quite the MoMA, but still one of the west’s most diverse. Three sites: Grand Avenue / 250 S Grand Ave / Downtown; The Geffen / 152 N Central Ave / Downtown / both closed Tue-Wed; Pacific Design Center / 8687 Melrose Ave / WeHo / 213 626 6222 / closed Mon / archi and design / moca.org. LACMA. LA’s most complete collection of art in a big sevenbuilding complex, and mod on-site Ray’s + Stark Bar. 5905 Wilshire Blvd / Mid City / 323 857 6000 / closed Wed / lacma.org The Broad. Diller Scofidio + Renfro’s jaw-dropping, giant cheese grater-channelling edifice is home to patrons Eli and Edythe B’s mammoth cache of post-war modern art. Worth a viz for that alone, but there’s also a pretty olive tree-lined garden and Otium (see Rest/Smart) eats here too. 221 S Grand Ave / Downtown / 213 232 6200 / Tue-Sun / free entry / pre book your visit to sidestep the parlous queues / thebroad.org Mod Walk Culver City. Culture specs on, avoid Sun-Mon, and begin at Koplin Del Rio / 6031 Washington Blvd (at Melvil) / 310 836 9055 / koplindelrio.com, then park around the cnr at Honor Fraser / 2622 S La Cienega Blvd / 310 837 0191 / honorfraser.com. Stroll north to #2632 JK Gallery / 310 837 3330, followed by #2642 Walter Maciel / 310 839 1840 / waltermacielgallery. com, and pontificate over cocktails at #2692 Mandrake / 310 837 3297 / mandrakebar.com. Sm-art! Golden Galleries Bergamot Station. Trolley stop turned contempo complex.
2525 Michigan Ave / Santa Monica / 310 453 7535 / closed Sun-Mon / bergamotstation.com Frederick Weisman Foundation. C.20th villa home to Fred’s stagger fab collection of Warhol, Rothko et al. 265 N Carolwood Dr / Beverly Hills / 310 277 5321 / by appt only / docentled tours 10.30am & 2pm Mon-Fri / weismanfoundation.org
Groovy Movie ArcLight. State of the art theatres and sophisty F&B. The original dome is a must for buffs / arclightcinemas.com. 6360 W Sunset Blvd / Hollywood / 323 464 1478 / or Cinefamily in a landmark theatre screens offbeat celluloid capers / 611 N Fairfax Ave / 323 655 2510 / cinefamily.org
Good Listeners Los Angeles Music Center. Gehry’s Walt Disney Concert Hall hosts the LA Philharmonic in winter; Oscar’s former home, the Dorothy Chandler Pavilion, hosts LA Opera. 135 N Grand Ave / Downtown / 213 972 7211 / musiccenter.org / dine on excellent seasonal fare at adjacent fine diner Patina / 141 S Grand Ave / 213 972 3331 / dinner Tue-Sun / patinarestaurant.com
Hollywood Bowl. Awesome amphitheatre with rockin’ acoustics and rollin’ gardens for picnics (see V. Useful). Too plebeian? Book box seats, or visit niche nook The Greek. 2301 N Highland Ave / Hollywood / 323 850 2000 / the Bowl hosts the LA Philharmonic in summer / hollywoodbowl.com To Market Grand Central Market. Historic, tad grotty bazaar now repping edgy DTLA Cheese, Eggslut + Oyster Gourmet. 317 S Broadway / Downtown / 213 624 2378 / grandcentralmarket.com
Slam-pede NBA. Pro b-ball rules the roost. The Lakers are showtime and perennial underdog Clippers are suddenly hot again.
Staples Center Arena / 1111 S Figueroa St / Downtown / for club seats call First Class Tickets (see Very Useful) / staplescenter.com
Mulholland Drive. Curvier than J. Lo in spandex, zip along for glittery city views / from Hollywood, take 101 Hwy north-bound to the Mulholland Dr exit. At Mulholland Dr, take a left towards Hollywood. Runyon Canyon will also be on the left should you fancy a scene-ic hike among celebu-dogs. Horse Riding
Sunset Ranch. The closest you’ll ever get to starring in a Western. Gallop in the Hills and soak up brill panoramas.
3400 N Beachwood Dr / Hollywood / 323 469 5450 / sunsetranchholly wood.com
What a Looker!
Adventure Helicopter Tours. Nothin’ beats gettin’ high.
Whiteman Airport / 12653 Osborne St / Pacoima / 888 933 5952 / adventurehelicoptertours.com
Natural Wanders Griffith Park and Observatory. This vast urban park is mostly untamed, with miles of hiking trails, wow vistas, and Wolfgang Puck’s Café at the end of the Universe. 2800 E Observatory Rd / 213 473 0800 / griffithobs.org / closed Mon / also try The Trails / 2333 Fern Dell Dve / Griffith Park / 323 871 2102
Dead Glamorous Hollywood Forever. Père-Lachaise it ain’t, but here lie DeMille, Valentino and other Old Hollywood luminaries. 6000 Santa Monica Blvd / Hollywood / 323 469 1181 / hollywoodforever.com / hosts outdoor screenings in summer / cinespia.org / or visit Westwood Cemetery to commune with Marilyn Monroe and Dean Martin / 1218 Glendon Ave / Westwood / 310 474 1579 / dignitymemorial.com
Breaking Waves Learn to Surf LA. You’ll be up on the first day, unless you keep ‘falling’ into your instructor’s swell-sculpted arms. Call 310 663 2479 / various locations / learntosurfla.com Weekend Getaways Day at the Beach. Head north up the Pacific Coast Hwy (PCH) to sunny honey Malibu. Start at oceanfront institution Geoffrey’s at 27400 PCH / 310 457 1519 / geoffreysmalibu.com / with a lobster cobb salad and mimosa, or Nobu at #22706 / 310 317 9140 / noburestaurants.com / if you prefer sashimi surfside. Bypass crowded Paradise Cove and Zuma up to pristine and Fido-friendly Leo Carrillo Beach / 35000 PCH / near the LA County line. Zip on to Ventura County for seafood shack Neptune’s Net / 42505 PCH / 310 457 3095 / and say bye bye bikini; nab a picnic table or skip to the sands to ogle a classic Cali sunset. Can’t bear to leave? Turn your day into a stay – hopefully you know some big studio exec with a seaside manse, but if not, there is always the coastal-chic Malibu Beach Inn / 22878 PCH / 310 456 6444 / malibubeachinn.com. Pasadena. Leafy nabe 15 kms from Hollywood. Drop by Norton Simon Museum / 411 W Colorado Blvd / 626 449 6840 / closed Tue / nortonsimon.org / this chap stashed his Degas, Picasso, and C.14th Indian sculptures in a glam Gehry. Relax at Huntington Gardens / 1151 Oxford Rd / 626 405 2100 / huntington.org; Descanso Gardens / 1418 Descanso Dr / 818 949 4200 / with Japanese tea house; or quaint English Rose
Tree Cottage / 801 S Pasadena Ave / 626 793 3337, and overnight at The Langham Huntington / 1401 S Oak Knoll Ave / 626 568 3900 / with gorgeous grounds and lovely spa.