SATUR­DAY

Have “Carouge” To Face The Day

LuxeGetaways - - Getaways Geneva -

My fi­nal pick is a rare treat: a two-Miche­lin-starred coun­try house restau­rant lo­cated just out­side of the city. Do­maine de

Chateau­vieux (Chemin de Château­vieux 16, Peney-Des­sus, 1242 Satigny, Genève) is set in a lovely stone 16th-cen­tury house nes­tled on a hill in the heart of Geneva’s coun­try­side. Un­less you have a rental car, a taxi is nec­es­sary (and you will be con­vinced that you must be lost), but stay the course – the pricey ride is worth it. I ar­rived just as the sun was be­gin­ning to set over the lush gar­dens and vine­yards, and I knew im­me­di­ately that this place was spe­cial. On a Thurs­day night, it was packed with guests ea­ger to sa­vor the tal­ents of Philippe Chevrier, the owner and chef, whose ed­i­ble cre­ations in­clude things like suc­cu­lent pi­geon served with green cab­bage and ba­con, fla­vored with saffron, pear and star anise; and then there was the delicate scal­lop tartare joined by a citrus sea wa­ter jelly, caviar and sea­weed bread with fleur de sel.

A mid-week five-course menu is CHF 96, and a mul­ti­course din­ner ranges from CHF 190 to CHF 380. Do­maine de Chateau­vieux also has 13 rooms if you choose to stay overnight start­ing at CHF 217.

Geneva has its very own ver­sion of New York City’s Green­wich Vil­lage: Carouge. Orig­i­nally built by the Sar­dini­ans as a sep­a­rate ri­val city, it is now a district of Geneva, and home to artists and ar­ti­sans who give the area a sort of Mediter­ranean boho feel.

Full of hip lo­cal bistros, bars and bou­tiques — in­clud­ing Ate­lier Matin Bleu (Rue An­ci­enne 5, 1227 Carouge) owned by Em­manuelle Bronzino, who makes her own fab­rics for her cloth­ing lines. You can eas­ily spend a morn­ing check­ing out the gal­leries and shops while ad­mir­ing the 18th cen­tury Ital­ianate style of ar­chi­tec­ture lin­ing the district’s checker­board al­ley­ways and streets. A few “must-see” spots in­clude cho­co­latier Philippe Pas­coët (Pas­sage des Lions, 1204 Genève) for a delicate treat such as their amaz­ing ganaches, Bou­tique L'Ef­fron­tée (Rue Saint-Vic­tor 24, 1227 Carouge) for au courant ready-to-wear women’s fash­ion; chic and trendy hand­made hand­bags at Chris Murner (Rue An­ci­enne 43, 1227 Carouge GE), the best café to caf­feinate and en­joy your fa­vorite cof­fee drink, Val­mandin (Rue An­ci­enne 46, 1227 Carouge); and L’échap­pée belle (Rue Saint-Vic­tor 1, 1227 Carouge) for all-around nifty items. And as an added bonus, if you go on a Wed­nes­day or Satur­day morn­ing (as well as Thurs­day evenings now), there is a farmer’s mar­ket of­fer­ing lo­cal pro­duce and goods. The area is per­fect for un­hur­ried, ram­bling roam­ing, but if you want a path to fol­low, then make your way to Place du Marché. At the Town Hall (Place du Marché 14, 1227 Geneva), you can pick up a bilin­gual guide of the area with a sug­gested walk. Be­fore leav­ing this lit­tle world, have a bite to eat at the stylish Asian fa­vorite, Paku Paku (Rue Vau­tier 43, 1227 Carouge) to fuel up for the rest of the day.

Pho­tog­ra­phy: Do­maine de Cheteau­vieux

Pho­tog­ra­phy: Cour­tesy Geneva Tourism

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