The stuffed, battered, and fried poblanos in chiles rellenos divorciados are a sensory revelation: crispy on the outside, gooey on the inside, and tingling with mild spice. The secret is to separate and whip the egg whites for the coating, which results in a shatteringly light, souffléd texture. Divorciados refers to the separated salsas— a red one made from roasted tomatoes, and a tangier green one from tomatillos. Fresh poblanos are usually sold green, which indicates a stage of ripeness, not flavor. To test for heat, cut off a bit and touch it to your tongue.