Ap­pe­tizer be­comes star as no-cook beef salad

Northwest Arkansas Democrat-Gazette - - STYLE - BON­NIE S. BENWICK

For a dish that’s more than 60 years old, beef carpaccio is still in the game. Here, it steps up from ap­pe­tizer sta­tus to no-cook en­tree for two. It be­comes a ca­sual plat­ter, with crunch and color strewn about any way you like it.

While the small hunk of bestqual­ity ten­der­loin firms up in the freezer (which makes it eas­ier to slice thin), you make quick dress­ings for the meat and for the greens, and prep the radishes and or­ange. I think pink grape­fruit would be a great sub­sti­tute for the lat­ter. The bread’s an in­te­gral part of the eat­ing, so tear off a chunk to en­joy with each com­bined bite.

The only caveat is: Don’t plan on left­overs. Af­ter sev­eral hours, the dress­ing for the beef will act as a cure and make the tex­ture of the meat a bit mushy.

Splurge on the fresh­est, bestqual­ity meat you can find and you won’t be sorry.

Ed­i­tor’s note: This recipe con­tains un­cooked eggs, which some­times con­tain sal­mo­nella bac­te­ria that can cause se­ri­ous ill­ness. If you can find them, use a pas­teur­ized egg.

Beef Carpaccio Salad With Cit­rus-Chile Dress­ing

For the carpaccio:

1 (8-ounce) piece beef ten­der­loin ¼ jarred pre­served lemon (see note) 1 egg yolk (see head­note) 2 ta­ble­spoons fresh or­ange or

grape­fruit juice

Pinch su­gar

Sea salt

Freshly ground black pep­per

3 or 4 ta­ble­spoons ex­tra-vir­gin olive

oil

For the salad and its dress­ing:

2 or 3 radishes

1 large navel or­ange

½ small red chile pep­per

1 tea­spoon white wine vine­gar ½ tea­spoon honey

1 tea­spoon toasted sesame oil 2 hand­fuls mache or baby arugula leaves (may sub­sti­tute frisee, also called curly en­dive)

Black or roasted white sesame

seeds, for gar­nish Baguette, for serv­ing

For the carpaccio and its dress­ing: Wrap the meat tightly in plas­tic wrap; place it in the cold­est part of the freezer (to firm up) for 20 min­utes.

Mean­while, rinse the pre­served lemon and mince it, trans­fer­ring it to a small jar as you work. Add the egg yolk, juice, su­gar and a small pinch each of salt and pep­per. Add the ex­travir­gin olive oil (to taste) and seal the jar. Shake to form a blended dress­ing.

While the meat is chill­ing, prep the salad: Trim the radishes (to taste) and cut first into thin rounds, and then into small match­sticks. Trans­fer to a mix­ing bowl.

Cut off the top and bot­tom of the or­ange, then cut down the sides to re­move all peel and pith. Hold­ing the or­ange in your hand, use a ser­rated knife to cut be­tween the mem­branes, re­leas­ing or­ange seg­ments into the same bowl. Squeeze a ta­ble­spoon of or­ange juice into the bowl as well.

Seed the chile pep­per half, then mince it and add to the bowl, along with the vine­gar, honey and toasted sesame oil. Whisk lightly to in­cor­po­rate.

Un­wrap the well-chilled beef. Lay a piece of plas­tic wrap that’s slightly big­ger than your serv­ing plat­ter on a work sur­face.

Use a very sharp knife to cut the meat as thinly as pos­si­ble, ar­rang­ing the slices on the plas­tic wrap (they can over­lap). Top the slices with an­other piece of plas­tic wrap, then pound the beef even thin­ner.

Re­move the top plas­tic wrap; in a quick mo­tion, in­vert the pounded mass of beef carpaccio onto the plat­ter, then re­move its re­main­ing plas­tic wrap. Driz­zle with dress­ing (in the jar; shake again be­fore pour­ing, as needed).

Add the arugula leaves to the mix­ing bowl and toss gen­tly to coat, then dis­trib­ute the dressed salad on top of the carpaccio. Sprin­kle with the sesame seeds; serve right away, eat­ing straight from the plat­ter.

Makes 2 serv­ings.

Note: Pre­served lemons are avail­able at spe­cialty stores. If you can’t find them, make your own us­ing this quick ver­sion from Bon Ap­petit. Com­bine 1 lemon sliced into ¼-inch thick rounds, ½ cup fresh lemon juice and 1 ta­ble­spoon coarse salt in a small skil­let. Bring to boil over high heat, stir­ring to dis­solve salt. Cover; re­duce heat to low. Sim­mer un­til lemon slices are al­most ten­der (peel will look translu­cent), about 10 min­utes. Cool. Trans­fer to bowl. Cover; chill. Adapted from Cit­rus: 150 Recipes Cel­e­brat­ing the Sweet and Sour, by Cather­ine Phipps (Quadrille, 2017)

The Wash­ing­ton Post/JENNIFER CHASE

Beef Carpaccio Salad With Cit­rus-Chile Dress­ing

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