129 // SEA’S THE LIMIT

Ocean Drive - - Contents - BY CARLA TOR­RES

At Bazaar Mar—an­chored at the much-buzzed-about SLS Brick­ell—josé An­drés boldly leads his fa­bled eatery into un­charted wa­ters.

AT BAZAAR MAR— AN­CHORED AT THE MUCH-BUZZED-ABOUT SLS BRICK­ELL—CHEF JOSÉ AN­DRÉS BOLDLY LEADS HIS FAMED EATERY INTO UN­CHARTED WA­TERS.

A mu­ral on the tiled walls tells the story of mer­maids, as their myth­i­cal king, Nep­tune, breaks for the hori­zon on the back of a sea unicorn. Above, the planet Saturn can be spot­ted amidst clouds. Be­low, the white mar­ble floor, awash in gray waves, con­jures the feel­ing of be­ing lost at sea—which you might as well be, con­sid­er­ing you’ve plunged down José An­drés’s culi­nary rab­bit hole into an oceanic won­der­land.

While the James Beard Award-win­ning chef needs no in­tro­duc­tion, his ré­sumé and culi­nary con­tri­bu­tions are sim­ply too important to ig­nore. A pro­tégé of the leg­endary Fer­ran Adrià, An­drés be­gan ques­tion­ing the fab­ric of tra­di­tional cook­ery at El Bulli in Spain when he was in­tro­duced to spher­i­fi­ca­tion, a tech­nique of molec­u­lar gas­tron­omy. To­day, spher­i­fied olives are a sta­ple (and a trib­ute to Adrià) at ev­ery one of An­drés’s Bazaar restau­rants, in­clud­ing his lat­est deep sea dive, Bazaar Mar.

It makes perfect sense that coastal Mi­ami is where this culi­nary sci­en­tist de­cided to drop an­chor. “Din­ers

should not ex­pect what they ex­pect,” he says. In other words, as­sume that the menu at Bazaar Mar will have zilch in com­mon with the of­fer­ings at The Bazaar at the SLS South Beach—other than his sig­na­ture liq­uid-nitro­gen caipir­inha, his famed olives, and a freshly sliced leg of Jabugo (the best of Ibe­rian ham). In­stead, you’ll find newly shucked oys­ters that have re­ceived the spher­i­fied ce­viche treat­ment, swim­ming in leche de ti­gre; ba­calao cro­que­tas; and ster­ling sil­ver oc­to­pus ves­sels car­ry­ing a seaweed fun­nel cake topped with av­o­cado, blue crab, sal­mon roe, and house-made mayo.

Eighty per­cent of Bazaar Mar’s menu is de­rived from the ocean, with an em­pha­sis on sus­tain­abil­ity— reel­ing in Key West shrimp, Russ & Daugh­ters smoked sal­mon from the Pa­cific for a rein­vented bagel and lox air bread, baby squid from Spain whirling in their pi­quant black ink, and even spear-caught li­on­fish that An­drés may have ac­tu­ally har­vested him­self. “I love to scuba dive and was in­tro­duced to these species in the Cay­man Is­lands by Michael Schwartz,” he says, re­fer­ring to his fel­low Mi­ami chef. “[Li­on­fish] are the rats of the ocean and mul­ti­ply a lot, so we need to make sure they be­come a beloved fish peo­ple are eat­ing.” That shouldn’t be a prob­lem: At Bazaar Mar, the strik­ing fish (also known as but­ter­fly cod) is fried whole and paired with a tar­tar sauce that will have you dip­ping even its bones.

While it may take mul­ti­ple vis­its to nav­i­gate through Bazaar Mar’s vast menu, it’s a deep and de­lec­ta­ble dive into the mind of a gas­tro­nomic ge­nius—a mind as wild as the larger-than-life bull­fish heads that hang in the restau­rant, seem­ingly watch­ing in ut­ter awe as din­ers spoon pineap­ple ras­pado (spiked with green char­treuse and doused in con­densed milk) from a crys­tal pineap­ple. 1300 S. Mi­ami Ave., Mi­ami, 305-2391320; sbe.com

“DIN­ERS SHOULD NOT EX­PECT

WHAT THEY EX­PECT.”

—josé an­drés

Bazaar Mar’s Cal­i­for­nia Seaweed “Fun­nel Cake”: fried nori “dough” topped with blue crab, sal­mon roe, cu­cum­ber, and av­o­cado.

Enor­mous bull­fish heads watch over the din­ing room, where 80 per­cent of the of­fer­ings are de­rived from the sea.

from left: A trib­ute to Spongebob, the tongue-in-cheek dessert Who Lives in a Pineap­ple Un­der the Sea??? com­bines pineap­ple ras­pado with green char­treuse, con­densed milk, and fennel frond in a crys­tal pineap­ple; the Hokkaido Sea Urchin Cone (nori cone, Yuzu Kosho Kew­pie mayo) is a one-bite won­der. inset: José An­drés.

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