Wines of Long Island offer surprises, lots of diversity

Island AVA and The Hamptons, Long Island AVA, both of which were established in the mid-1980s, a year apart.

The official wine story of Long Island began in 1973 when a couple named Alex and Louisa Hargrave planted a vineyard in the town of Cutchogue and were soon joined by like-minded pioneers wanting to take advantage of the area’s maritime climate — long, warm growing seasons conducive to even ripening, tempered by cool breezes to help retain acidity.

Inching up to 45 years later on the timeline, today the region is home to about 60 wineries spread across 3,000 acres of vineyards and turning out everything from sparkling wines and whites (notably sauvignon blanc and chardonnay) to rosés, reds (cabernet franc, merlot) and dessert wines.

This happens, for the most part, on the far northeastern end of the island, where the land pokes out into the ocean and splits, naturally creating the island’s North and South forks and the Peconic Bay between them.

The South Fork is home to The Hamptons — both the appellation and the famous collection of beachside mansions and quaint villages — but only three wineries call this AVA home. The vast majority of Long Island’s wineries dot the North Fork peninsula, where the Hargraves planted their first vines — these are the wines to seek out.

Decades before wine grapes grew on the eastern tip of Long Island, the area had an agricultural identity that leaned more toward potatoes and various fruits. Today, though, approaching the area’s 50th anniversary as a wine-producing region, Long Island continues to develop and work toward claiming its spot in the larger wine world.

As is the case with so many under-theradar regions, Long Island wines can be tricky to find. Don’t let that deter you, though. Sharing rare and surprising discoveries with friends and guests is one of the great joys of anyone’s wine journey. RED