Koi Res­tau­rant

Pasatiempo - - Restaurant Review -

135 W. Palace Ave., 955-0400 Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Tues­days-Fri­days; din­ner 6-10 p.m. Tues­days-Sun­days, closed Mon­days

Full bar Take­out avail­able Veg­e­tar­ian op­tions Hand­i­capped-ac­ces­si­ble Pa­tio din­ing in sea­son Noise level: quiet to lively

Credit cards, no checks

The Short Or­der

There’s no trendy As­tro­Turf on the bath­room walls at Koi Res­tau­rant, the new ven­ture of chef Joel Cole­man that oc­cu­pies the third floor of the build­ing at the corner of Palace and Grant av­enues. The menu is short, so you can as­sem­ble a lovely, sat­is­fy­ing meal from a va­ri­ety of small, bold, de­li­cious dishes. Cole­man flirts with molec­u­lar gas­tron­omy, and while you could ar­gue that that culi­nary trend is “so 2008,” who cares? No one else in Santa Fe is at­tempt­ing any­thing as ad­ven­tur­ous or cre­ative. Rec­om­mended: kim­chi pan­cakes, sashimi spon­tanée, agedashi tofu, beef and rice noo­dle salad, “Greek salad,” and the de­con­structed s’more.

Rat­ings range from 0 to 4 chiles. This re­flects the re­viewer’s ex­pe­ri­ence with re­gard to food and drink, at­mos­phere, ser­vice, and value.

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