135 W. Palace Ave., 955-0400 Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Tuesdays-Fridays; dinner 6-10 p.m. Tuesdays-Sundays, closed Mondays
Full bar Takeout available Vegetarian options Handicapped-accessible Patio dining in season Noise level: quiet to lively
Credit cards, no checks
The Short Order
There’s no trendy AstroTurf on the bathroom walls at Koi Restaurant, the new venture of chef Joel Coleman that occupies the third floor of the building at the corner of Palace and Grant avenues. The menu is short, so you can assemble a lovely, satisfying meal from a variety of small, bold, delicious dishes. Coleman flirts with molecular gastronomy, and while you could argue that that culinary trend is “so 2008,” who cares? No one else in Santa Fe is attempting anything as adventurous or creative. Recommended: kimchi pancakes, sashimi spontanée, agedashi tofu, beef and rice noodle salad, “Greek salad,” and the deconstructed s’more.
Ratings range from 0 to 4 chiles. This reflects the reviewer’s experience with regard to food and drink, atmosphere, service, and value.