Café Son­der has a farm-to-ta­ble ethos, a fierce ded­i­ca­tion to mak­ing ab­so­lutely every­thing in-house (in­clud­ing roast­ing their own cof­fee), and a some­what ad­ven­tur­ous brunch menu.

Pasatiempo - - AMUSE-BOUCHE -

roast­ing their own cof­fee), and a some­what ad­ven­tur­ous brunch menu that in­cludes lunch items (Thai kale salad, for ex­am­ple, or ox­tail-ragu pasta) along with more break­fasty op­tions. Lo­cated in what was for­merly the Zia Diner space, the restau­rant has a sprawl­ing foot­print that in­cludes a bar and a large din­ing room, mak­ing it a good bet for get­ting a ta­ble even on Mother’s Day (although they rec­om­mend reser­va­tions, of course). Tra­di­tion­al­ists will be happy to find ba­sics like their solidly zingy eggs Bene­dict with red-chile hol­landaise, served on house-made English muffins with a fresh side salad, or steak and eggs with sur­pris­ingly ten­der flank steak and roasted pota­toes deca­dently sprin­kled with ba­con. (Ask for a side of hol­landaise, as this dish could use a sauce.)

The menu also in­cludes more un­usual items, like Café Son­der’s take on a smoked salmon and bagel dish — gravlax with capers, cream cheese, soft-boiled egg, and pick­led green chile — or the Ja­panese oc­hazuke break­fast with on­sen (soft-cooked) eggs, pick­led daikon, and tofu on sticky rice with nori and shi­itake. Their ver­sion of hash is a slightly Mid­dle Eastern dish made with lamb, dates, and feta; and their French toast be­gins with house-made chal­lah and is served with creamy mas­car­pone cheese. Café Son­der also has beer and wine and is of­fer­ing mi­mosas for $8 as a spe­cial with their brunch — a good deal, as you get a sparkling wine split and re­fills of orange juice. — Tantri Wija

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