Passage Maker - - @Rest -

Chef Karen Even­den unveils a few of her fa­vorite rice-cen­tric meals, the per­fect starchy com­pan­ion to your gal­ley cre­ations.

Rice has long been the sta­ple food for a sig­nif­i­cant part of the world’s pop­u­la­tion, but I con­fess I was blown away when I first learned that there are 40,000 va­ri­eties of this es­sen­tial grain. And I thought I was be­ing ex­trav­a­gant by stock­ing my pantry with four or five of my fa­vorites. Rice, the seed of a spe­cific species of grass, is said to have grown in China as far back as 2500 B.C. Then, through­out the cen­turies, cul­ti­va­tion spread to Sri Lanka and In­dia, and by the Mid­dle Ages—thanks to Arab traders—it was in­tro­duced to Spain and Italy. With its ap­pear­ance in those Mediter­ranean coun­tries, new cook­ing meth­ods and fla­vor com­bi­na­tions were born. Wel­come, paella and risotto.

Both of those rice-based dishes are steeped in the cus­toms of their lands of ori­gin. A clas­sic Va­len­cian paella is still made with tra­di­tional lo­cal in­gre­di­ents (think seafood or rab­bit, with beans, toma­toes, onions, gar­lic, pep­pers, and saf­fron), cooked over an open fire fu­eled by or­ange branches, pine boughs, vines, and pine cones. Then, some time later in Mi­lan (which had been un­der the rule of paella-lov­ing Spa­niards), Ital­ians brought their tra­di­tional slow-cook­ing meth­ods to the rice ta­ble. That new method, com­bined with a lo­cally grown, short-grain rice, and their richly fla­vored in­gre­di­ents re­sulted in Risotto alla Mi­lanese. To­day this dish con­tin­ues to be cre­ated around the same core com­po­nents: rice, soup stock (usu­ally chicken), onions, but­ter, wine, parme­san, and saf­fron.

These days, though we may oc­ca­sion­ally crave a tra­di­tional risotto or paella, we are in­spired to use our own lo­cal in­gre­di­ents to cre­ate and en­joy new com­bi­na­tions of rice and spice—sim­ple, easyto-clean on­board meals.


Over medium-high heat, pour the olive oil into a large saute pan (a 10inch pan works well) and swirl to coat the bot­tom. Add the onion and red pep­per and saute for 3-4 min­utes, stir­ring fre­quently, un­til the veg­eta­bles are ten­der. Add the gar­lic and cook for 30 sec­onds. Add the rice, oregano, salt, saf­fron, pa­prika, cayenne pep­per, and broth. Stir to­gether and bring to a boil. Re­duce the heat to medium-low, cover, and sim­mer for 20 min­utes. ta­ble­spoons olive oil 21 cup diced onion ½ cup diced red pep­per 23– cloves gar­lic, minced 1¼ cups long-grain rice 1½ tsp dried oregano ¼ tsp kosher or fine sea salt Large pinch of saf­fron ½ tsp pa­prika ¼ tsp cayenne pep­per (op­tional) 2¼ cups chicken broth 1 pound peeled and de-veined large shrimp 1 cup peas (fresh or frozen) 2 tsp fresh le­mon zest 2 tbsp fresh le­mon juice 1 large ripe avo­cado, peeled and diced

Fluff the rice with a fork and stir in the shrimp and peas. Sim­mer for an­other 5 min­utes, stir­ring oc­ca­sion­ally un­til the shrimp turn pink. Stir in the le­mon zest and le­mon juice. Spoon onto warm serv­ing plates, top with diced avo­cado, and serve.


In­gre­di­ents¾½ 4 Salt6 quar­ters2 2 and tsp tsp gar­lic bone­less,tbsp large pep­per cumin co­rian­der(per olive car­rots,cloves,to per­son­oil skin­lesstaste minced­diced served): chick­ens­mall thighs, cut in 1 ver­ti­cally½ 1 medi­um­cup cup and red long-grainsliced pep­per– thin large rice onion, cut in half 2 1 or frozen), cup­scup cut chick­en­fresh green veg­eta­bles:broth beans, zuc­chini­peas (freshor a com­bi­na­tionFresh pars­ley, chopped 1 lime or le­mon quar­tered In a small bowl, mix to­gether the cumin, co­rian­der, gar­lic, salt, and pep­per. Rub the sea­son­ing on the chicken pieces. Over medi­umhigh heat, pour the olive oil into a large saute pan, and swirl to coat the bot­tom. Add the chicken and cook un­til browned on all sides. Re­move the

One-of-a-Kind Spice

Saf­fron, an ex­tremely valu­able spice, is the stigma of the saf­fron cro­cus. Har­vest­ing is te­dious and time-con­sum­ing as the stig­mas— or threads—must be plucked by hand, care­fully piled, and dried. It is used in var­i­ous cuisines as a sea­son­ing— it im­parts an earthy, pun­gent fla­vor—and a col­or­ing agent. One of the world’s most costly spices by weight, it is be­lieved to have orig­i­nated in Asia Mi­nor but it was first cul­ti­vated in Greece. chick­ento medium from and pan add and the set car­rots,aside. Re­duce onion, the and heatred pep­per and then cook, stir­ring fre­quently for 5 min­utes. Stir in the rice and cook for 1 minute. Add the chicken broth, mix well and re­duce heat to low. Cover and cook for 15 min­utes. Stir in the re­main­ing veg­eta­bles and re­turn the chicken, along with ac­cu­mu­lated juices to the pan. Cover and sim­mer un­til the rice is just ten­der, about 10 min­utes. Sprin­kle with pars­ley and serve with lime or le­mon on the side. Karen Even­den has cooked aboard boats from the U.S. to Europe. She and her hus­band now cruise the west coast aboard a Kadey-Kro­gen. She has self-pub­lished A Taste of Croa­tia and Ojai’s Ta­ble, both avail­able at Ama­

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