The se­cret of the scents

Plaza Magazine US & International - - CONTENTS - Words caro­line hainer Pho­tog­ra­phy to­mas MONKA il­lus­tra­tions MARISA fjärem

Plaza presents the new names to look out for and re­veals the se­cret be­hind the smells.

Shake­speare was wrong, a rose is not al­ways a rose. To start with, there are hun­dreds of dif­fer­ent types of roses. And a rose also lets off a dif­fer­ent scent depend­ing on where in the world it has been grown and what time of day it is har­vested. That the aroma of a flower can vary greatly is one of the key truths about per­fumes. When grasp­ing that fact, it's dif­fi­cult not to be drawn into the ex­cit­ing world of fra­grance. The nu­ances are like a kaleidoscope with new essences re­vealed each time you turn the wheel. Think about how the smell dif­fers be­tween rose petals and a flower still at­tached to its stem. The com­po­si­tion of the per­fume al­lows the back­ground notes to bring out the fra­grance of the flower in one great sym­phony of aro­mas. It is this blend that makes the fra­grance unique. A suc­cess­ful per­fume mix­ture can be com­pared to an or­ches­tra with dif­fer­ent in­stru­ments com­ple­ment­ing each other. In part­ner­ship they cre­ate a melody that sets the at­mos­phere. First to ap­pear when spray­ing a per­fume are the fleet­ingly light top notes, which can be likened to the in­tro of a song. The role of these easy and fresh cit­rus like trails is to in­vig­o­rate your sense of smell, tick­ling your nose. They are soon re­placed by the heart of the per­fume, its cho­rus. Vel­vety and rich smells of rose, laven­der or vanilla de­cide if a per­fume is to be cat­e­gorised as 'flo­ral', 'spicy' or 'fruity'. The base con­sists of the rich and deep aro­mas, also known as the heavy mol­e­cules. They take half an hour to ma­te­ri­alise and then re­main on the skin, thereby rep­re­sent­ing the per­fume's core melody. All com­bined, the notes cre­ate a bou­quet of beau­ti­ful aro­mas. The ma­te­ri­als used de­ter­mines the style, tone and, quite of­ten, the price of the per­fume. A rose paired with a spice re­sults in a fiery and sen­sual smell, while the same f lower ac­cen­tu­ated by vanilla or wood equals a smell that is warm and soft. So, Shake­speare, a rose is not al­ways just a rose. A rose is a world of fra­grances.

How is a suc­cess­ful per­fume cre­ated? Plaza presents the new names to look out for and re­veals the se­cret be­hind the smells.

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