The structure is very soft and frequently unlined. Shoulders are natural and often completely unstructured. The two methods used when attaching the sleeve to the armhole are called con rollino and spalla camicia. Rollino is more classic, offering a closed seam where the cloth is turned downwards which produces a slightly raised effect above the shoulder. Spalla camicia is when you attach the sleeve and the shoulder horizontally like on a shirt. The length of the jacket is somewhat shorter and the lapels wider. The gorge, the seam where the lapels meet the collar, is higher than normal. Instead of a straight chest pocket many Neapolitan jackets have a curved pocket, a so-called barchetta which means ‘little boat’. Another detail that you’ll find on more casual jackets is the one-button sleeve. The style is also known for its preference for three buttons although with an elegant roll that sees the top button resting against the lapel and is not meant to be buttoned!