Bas­kets of Fun

Look­ing for a fun quilt­ing project with no stress? Here it is. You don’t have to worry about match­ing seams with this one.

Quilter's World - - News -

Try a project with no stress and no match­ing seams.

This quilt was com­pletely in­spired by Gwen Marston’s bas­ket quilts. I learned the tech­nique from her books and in her class. The outer scal­lops were in­spired by a Sarah Fielke quilt. I just su­per­sized them

on my quilt.” —Jenny Rekeweg


• As­sorted col­or­ful scraps • 1 fat eighth each 4 co­or­di­nat­ing

back­ground fab­rics • 1 fat quar­ter black-and-white

di­ag­o­nal check • 1/ 3 yard co­or­di­nat­ing print • 1/2 yard pink tonal • Back­ing to size • Bat­ting to size* • Thread • Tem­plate ma­te­rial • Ba­sic sewing tools and sup­plies *Quil­ter’s Dream Green bat­ting used to make sam­ple.


Re­fer to Com­plet­ing the Bas­ket blocks for cut­ting the scraps. Pre­pare the G tem­plate us­ing pat­tern given; cut as di­rected.

From each fat eighth:

• Cut 1 (8" x 9") rect­an­gle.

From black-and-white di­ag­o­nal check:

• Cut 2 (11/2" x 141/2") E strips and 2 (11/2" x 161/2")

F strips.

From co­or­di­nat­ing print:

• Cut 3 (21/4" by fab­ric width) bind­ing strips.

From pink tonal:

• Cut 3 (31/2" by fab­ric width) strips. Sub­cut 1 strip into 2 (31/2" x 161/2") H strips. Trim re­main­ing strips to 31/2" x 221/2" I strips.


1. Se­lect a scrap and cut a bas­ket shape

as shown in Fig­ure 1. Note: The bas­ket does not have to be sym­met­ri­cal but should have straight top and bot­tom edges.

2. Lay the bas­ket shape on the bot­tom 9" edge of an 8" x 9" rect­an­gle match­ing the bot­tom straight edges. Cut a straight line from one side to the other across the top of the bas­ket shape to make A and B rec­tan­gles as shown in Fig­ure 2; set aside the A rect­an­gle.

3. With B and the bas­ket shape right sides up, place the bas­ket shape on the B strip, mov­ing the bas­ket shape slightly off cen­ter as shown in Fig­ure 3.

4. Cut along the left edge of the bas­ket to cut B at an an­gle to match the bas­ket edge as shown in Fig­ure 4.

5. Move the bas­ket shape slightly to the right on B and re­peat step 4 to cut a sec­ond an­gled B piece as shown in Fig­ure 5.

6. Sew the left- and right-an­gled B pieces to the bas­ket piece to make a B unit as shown in Fig­ure 6; press seams open.

7. Trim the stitched B unit to 71/2" wide as shown in Fig­ure 7.

8. Se­lect a scrap and cut a 11/4" bias strip at least 9" long for han­dle.

9. Set your ma­chine for a bast­ing stitch. Fold the edges of the bias strip to the cen­ter of the wrong side, over­lap­ping the edges slightly. Sew down the cen­ter of the strip to hold as shown in Fig­ure 8; press.

10. Trim the A rect­an­gle to 71/2" wide. Place the A rect­an­gle and the B unit on a flat sur­face, align­ing along the 71/2" edges as shown in Fig­ure 9.

11. Pin one end of the bias strip right side up at the edges of the bas­ket on A. An­gle the bias strip, iron and pin as you stretch the strip to the op­po­site side of the bas­ket on A as shown in Fig­ure 10.

12. Set the ma­chine to a smaller stitch length and stitch close to the edge along the in­side curve of the bias strip, across the end and around to the start­ing point to com­plete the han­dle unit as shown in Fig­ure 11. 13. Re­move the bast­ing stitches. 14. Join the B unit with the han­dle unit to com­plete one Bas­ket block re­fer­ring to Fig­ure 12.

15. Re­peat steps 1–14 to com­plete four Bas­ket blocks, chang­ing shapes and han­dle place­ment as de­sired and re­fer­ring to the sam­ple quilt for in­spi­ra­tion.

16. Square blocks to 71/2" x 71/2" if nec­es­sary.

Bas­ket 4 7" x 7" Fin­ished Block Make 1

Bas­ket 1 7" x 7" Fin­ished Block Make 1

Bas­ket 2 7" x 7" Fin­ished Block Make 1

Bas­ket 3 7" x 7" Fin­ished Block Make 1

Fig­ure 2

Fig­ure 11

Fig­ure 10

Fig­ure 12

Fig­ure 9

Fig­ure 8

Fig­ure 7

Fig­ure 3

Fig­ure 4

Fig­ure 6

Fig­ure 5

Fig­ure 1

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