If you’ve already eaten your way through Lima, this is the time to visit what has recently become South America’s tastiest town, where a new breed of inventive chefs is putting local ingredients front and center. Our meal-by-meal guide takes the guesswork out of where to eat.
→ Adjacent to a leafy courtyard, the Colmado Coffee & Bakery (no website) serves delicious Chilean breakfasts (cotija-topped eggs, buttery white bread, tomato salad), but that’s not why you’re here. In a land where instant coffee reigns, this is the place for a fix of the real thing, including sips made with a siphon—the brewing method of choice for many coffee fanatics. LUNCH → The city’s gastronomic wizardry is on display at Fuy (fuysantiago.com), where the menu offers dishes like toothfish and honeyed cauliflower with citric emulsion, and braised short ribs in smoked cherry tree purée. Get a table on the leaf-shrouded patio under the dusky-pink umbrellas.
→ When news of a restaurant spreads from one hemisphere to another, it must be something special. At Rodolfo Guzmán’s Boragó (borago.cl), everything is grown (or milked) at his nearby farm, foraged in the mountains, or bought from fishermen. This means the menu changes daily, but it may feature guanaco (a llama relative) served with guava and quail eggs. DESSERT → In the summer, locals line up around the block for the all-natural, homemade ice creams at Emporio La Rosa (emporiolarosa.com), flavored with indigenous fruits like lúcuma and maracuyá pepa. Do as Chileans do, and order an individual mascarpone ice cream cheesecake topped with passion fruit for a midnight snack. COCKTAILS → Couples congregate at Ruca Bar (rucabar.com) for inventive gin cocktails, such as the Gin Yang, made with lemon, triple sec, and cardamom syrup, and late-night tapas including lollipop falafel. WHERE TO STAY → Luxe 62-room hotel the Singular Santiago (thesingular.com; doubles from $290) is the newest game in town. We also love the recently redone Castillo Rojo (castillorojohotel.com; doubles from $169), set in a 1923 mansion just a block from one of poet Pablo Neruda’s former homes. Ask for a room with a view of the Andes.