Real Weddings - - Travel -

If you’ve al­ready eaten your way through Lima, this is the time to visit what has re­cently be­come South Amer­ica’s tasti­est town, where a new breed of in­ven­tive chefs is putting lo­cal in­gre­di­ents front and cen­ter. Our meal-by-meal guide takes the guess­work out of where to eat.

→ Ad­ja­cent to a leafy court­yard, the Col­mado Coffee & Bak­ery (no web­site) serves de­li­cious Chilean break­fasts (cotija-topped eggs, but­tery white bread, tomato salad), but that’s not why you’re here. In a land where in­stant coffee reigns, this is the place for a fix of the real thing, in­clud­ing sips made with a siphon—the brew­ing method of choice for many coffee fa­nat­ics. LUNCH → The city’s gas­tro­nomic wiz­ardry is on dis­play at Fuy (fuysan­ti­, where the menu of­fers dishes like tooth­fish and hon­eyed cau­li­flower with cit­ric emul­sion, and braised short ribs in smoked cherry tree purée. Get a ta­ble on the leaf-shrouded pa­tio un­der the dusky-pink um­brel­las.

→ When news of a restau­rant spreads from one hemi­sphere to an­other, it must be some­thing spe­cial. At Rodolfo Guzmán’s Bor­agó (bor­, ev­ery­thing is grown (or milked) at his nearby farm, for­aged in the moun­tains, or bought from fish­er­men. This means the menu changes daily, but it may fea­ture gua­naco (a llama rel­a­tive) served with guava and quail eggs. DESSERT → In the sum­mer, lo­cals line up around the block for the all-nat­u­ral, home­made ice creams at Emporio La Rosa (em­po­ri­o­, fla­vored with in­dige­nous fruits like lúcuma and maracuyá pepa. Do as Chileans do, and or­der an in­di­vid­ual mas­car­pone ice cream cheese­cake topped with pas­sion fruit for a mid­night snack. COCK­TAILS → Cou­ples con­gre­gate at Ruca Bar (ru­ for in­ven­tive gin cock­tails, such as the Gin Yang, made with lemon, triple sec, and car­damom syrup, and late-night tapas in­clud­ing lol­lipop falafel. WHERE TO STAY → Luxe 62-room ho­tel the Sin­gu­lar San­ti­ago (thesin­gu­; dou­bles from $290) is the new­est game in town. We also love the re­cently re­done Castillo Rojo (castil­loro­jo­ho­; dou­bles from $169), set in a 1923 man­sion just a block from one of poet Pablo Neruda’s for­mer homes. Ask for a room with a view of the An­des.

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