STUCK CASE RE­MOVAL

Recoil - - Hebrew Hammer -

Fire enough rounds and you’ll even­tu­ally run head­long into a case head sep­a­ra­tion. We en­coun­tered one with the Galil, leav­ing the for­ward part of the case jammed into its cham­ber, and ty­ing up the gun for the re­main­der of a range ses­sion. Oc­ca­sion­ally, the stars align and the gods smile upon us, and the next round has just enough fric­tion be­tween it and the case rem­nant to pop it out — in some in­stances you al­most don’t no­tice what’s hap­pened as you cy­cle the ac­tion to eject what you per­ceive as a fail­ure to go into bat­tery.

Other times, the chunk of brass is so firmly wedged it needs a spe­cial­ist tool to break it out. This was one of those times. Un­for­tu­nately, there are no stuck case re­moval tools we know of for the 300 BLK.

7.62 NATO, 5.56, and the com­mon com­mie rounds are all catered for, but what to do in this in­stance? For­tu­nately, sup­pres­sor guru Mike Pa­pas of Dead Air came to the res­cue with a work­around:

1. Take a fired 5.56 case and par­tially size it in a 300 BLK siz­ing die with the neck ex­pander re­moved, in or­der to cre­ate a false shoul­der. If you don’t have dies, then tap­ping the case into the cham­ber with a ham­mer is a vi­able al­ter­na­tive.

2. De­grease the case thor­oughly and ap­ply a drop of cyanoacry­late ad­he­sive to the false shoul­der. That’s su­per­glue for the grunts at the back of class.

3. Insert the case into the cham­ber, tak­ing care not to get glue any­where other than the stuck case rem­nant, and press it in there good and hard.

4. Wait for the glue to set up, then close the bolt and cy­cle the ac­tion. You may need to use a lot of ex­tra force to do this. In the event that your bolt’s ex­trac­tor rips through the case rim, use a cleaning rod from the muz­zle to tap the stuck case out.

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