STUCK CASE REMOVAL
Fire enough rounds and you’ll eventually run headlong into a case head separation. We encountered one with the Galil, leaving the forward part of the case jammed into its chamber, and tying up the gun for the remainder of a range session. Occasionally, the stars align and the gods smile upon us, and the next round has just enough friction between it and the case remnant to pop it out — in some instances you almost don’t notice what’s happened as you cycle the action to eject what you perceive as a failure to go into battery.
Other times, the chunk of brass is so firmly wedged it needs a specialist tool to break it out. This was one of those times. Unfortunately, there are no stuck case removal tools we know of for the 300 BLK.
7.62 NATO, 5.56, and the common commie rounds are all catered for, but what to do in this instance? Fortunately, suppressor guru Mike Papas of Dead Air came to the rescue with a workaround:
1. Take a fired 5.56 case and partially size it in a 300 BLK sizing die with the neck expander removed, in order to create a false shoulder. If you don’t have dies, then tapping the case into the chamber with a hammer is a viable alternative.
2. Degrease the case thoroughly and apply a drop of cyanoacrylate adhesive to the false shoulder. That’s superglue for the grunts at the back of class.
3. Insert the case into the chamber, taking care not to get glue anywhere other than the stuck case remnant, and press it in there good and hard.
4. Wait for the glue to set up, then close the bolt and cycle the action. You may need to use a lot of extra force to do this. In the event that your bolt’s extractor rips through the case rim, use a cleaning rod from the muzzle to tap the stuck case out.