Feelin’ it

Red Eye Chicago - - Eat Drink -

Some­times when I dine out, a song pops into my head that per­fectly de­scribes the ex­pe­ri­ence. In the case of WonFun—the new West Loop Sichuan Chi­nese spot from Bar Marta vets Austin Baker and ex­ec­u­tive chef Ben Ruiz—that song is “Last Nite” by The Strokes. The song is about a breakup, but that’s not to say that WonFun is a great place to drop your sweet­heart. I gen­er­ally get hooked by melodies and rarely lis­ten to lyrics. Ju­lian Casablan­cas growls like a mum­bling drunk, and a jan­gly gui­tar riff in­spires me to head to the near­est dark­est bar, put White Stripes on the juke­box, do shots of whiskey and dance un­til I fall over. Which is funny be­cause I don’t dance. But “Last Nite” is the kind of song that makes you feel like you’re in the right place no mat­ter where you are, the kind of song that makes you want to do stuff you don’t usu­ally do. Stuff you might have to ex­plain to a lawyer the next day. WonFun in­spires the same wan­ton aban­don.

Dry chili prawns

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