“Sum­mer is an­other coun­try,”

SAVEUR - - Editor’s Note - Adam Sachs Ed­i­tor-in-chief Fol­low Adam on Twit­ter and In­sta­gram @sachsmo

some­one smart once said to me. Where he came from win­ter seemed to last just shy of eter­nity and each day of sum­mer was ex­pe­ri­enced as a brief, happy mir­a­cle.

I like trav­el­ing to places that take their sum­mers se­ri­ously, where the glo­ri­ous re­prieve from dark­ness and cold makes folks feel wor­ship­ful to­ward the sun. Scan­di­navia with its night­less midsummer is like this. Mon­treal, be­tween bl­iz­zards, is too. Even closer to home, the ideal (read: lazy) sum­mer day can some­times seem like a des­ti­na­tion that’s hard to reach. Busy rou­tines are tough to shake. Sched­ul­ing pur­pose­ful noth­ing­ness is al­ways harder than it should be. Get­ting out of town helps. Go­ing some­where with the fam­ily— some­where there’s a body of wa­ter to gape at or jump into, a house with a kitchen that’s nice to cook in, a yard with a grill—that’s best of all.

This sum­mer, I’ll be head­ing back to the North Fork of Long Is­land, where we’ve man­aged to bor­row or rent lit­tle places for the last few years. The kids will chase min­nows and each other at the peb­bly, im­per­fect beaches. We’ll buy some fresh-caught blue­fish to grill and local rosé to drink all day. We’ll eat ice cream in the car and take naps and ev­ery­thing will take on the slow rhythms, the com­fort­ing con­tours and low-ex­pec­ta­tion sat­is­fac­tion of per­fect days spent do­ing noth­ing to­gether. That’s the plan any­way, the goal. A lit­tle dis­cov­ery is wel­come, in mod­er­a­tion: a new clam shack to try, a dif­fer­ent win­ery. But fa­mil­iar­ity is cen­tral to the mis­sion. And cook­ing— for and with and around each other—is al­ways part of the recipe.

Test kitchen di­rec­tor Stacy Adi­mando’s call to “(Re)con­sider the Lob­ster” (page 52) calls to mind a dish I first en­coun­tered in an old is­sue of this mag­a­zine: the spaghetti all’as­tice (spaghetti with lob­ster) made by the pro­pri­etor of a winebar in Venice called Mas­caron who posed on the cover of Is­sue No. 38. Like a good reader, I tried it first at the res­tau­rant in Venice and then made it my­self at home. And I’ve been mak­ing it at least once a sum­mer ever since. It’s like a sign­post that says: sum­mer this way. We’ll be glad to see it again.

Sum­mers past: A ram­bling walk ends the day near Ponta de São Lourenço on the eastern tip of the is­land of Madeira.

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