MEET YOUR MAKER

SAVEUR - - Primer -

Al­most all ice cream ma­chines func­tion the same: They rapidly chill a base while ag­i­tat­ing it to in­cor­po­rate air. This keeps the ice crys­tals that are form­ing in­side as small as pos­si­ble. Which ma­chine you need largely de­pends on how much ice cream you plan to make.

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THE STARTER: Cuisi­nart’s en­try-level Ice-21 is com­pact, fool­proof, and makes an ex­cel­lently tex­tured prod­uct. The down­side is prep time. Its freez­ing power comes from a gelfilled bowl that must be frozen 8 hours in ad­vance of churn­ing and re­frozen af­ter each 1-quart churn. $60; cuisi­nart.com

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UP­GRADE: Bre­ville’s Smart Scoop has a built-in cool­ing el­e­ment so you can spin batches back to back (though, for best re­sults, freeze the churn­ing cham­ber for five min­utes be­tween projects). It also churns at a slower speed and whips less air into the base for a sub­tly denser and creamier re­sult. $400; bre­ville.com

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