SAVEUR - - Master Class -

ry­ori was brought to Ja­pan from China in the sixth cen­tury, and by the 13th—when the Zen pa­tri­arch Do­gen wrote a man­ual ti­tled “In­struc­tions for the Cook”—it had be­come thor­oughly Ja­panese. In the 15th cen­tury it was reimag­ined again by Sen no Rikyu, the great pop­u­lar­izer of the tea cer­e­mony and the aes­thetic of ex­quis­ite shab­bi­ness known as wabi-sabi. The sim­ple sho­jin dishes and pow­dered green tea that Rikyu served in his rus­tic tea­house even­tu­ally gave rise to kaiseki, the elab­o­rate, time-con­sum­ing, and of­ten stun­ningly costly mul­ti­course

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