Tar­tine’s Crois­sants

MAKES 14 CROIS­SANTS; Photo pg. 27

SAVEUR - - Contents -

Ac­tive: 2 hr. • To­tal: 14 hr. The crois­sant is the most cel­e­brated mem­ber of the fam­ily of but­ter- and sugar-en­riched, yeasted pas­tries known as vi­en­nois­eries. They ob­tain their sig­na­ture flaky tex­ture through lam­i­na­tion, the process of coat­ing a dough with fat and re­peat­edly fold­ing and rolling it to cre­ate lay­ers. Tar­tine owner Chad Robert­son in­sists on an un­salted, high-fat but­ter with at least 80 per­cent fat for lam­i­nat­ing his straight-armed ver­sions.

Recipe times may vary dras­ti­cally depend­ing on en­vi­ron­men­tal fac­tors, so be sure to mind the vis­ual cues be­fore mov­ing on to the next step. If pos­si­ble, use a scale to mea­sure your in­gre­di­ents and work in a cool room.

FOR THE PREFER­MENT:

¾ cup (200 g) 2% milk ½ tsp. (2 g) ac­tive dry yeast (not in­stant) 1¼ cups (175 g) bread flour

FOR THE DOUGH:

2 tsp. (8 g) ac­tive dry yeast (not in­stant) 1¾ cups (425 g) 2% milk 5¼ cups (800 g) bread flour, plus more as needed ⅓ cup (70 g) sugar 1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. (22 g) fine sea salt 1 Tbsp. (12 g) un­salted but­ter, melted

5 sticks (585 g) high-fat un­salted but­ter (look for Euro­pean-style brands like Plu­gra, Prési­dent, or Ker­ry­gold) at room tem­per­a­ture 3 large egg yolks 2 Tbsp. heavy cream

1 Make the prefer­ment: In a small sau­cepan over low heat, warm the milk just enough to take the chill off. (The milk should not feel warm or cold to the touch, 80°–90°.)

2 Pour the milk into a large bowl, then sprin­kle in the yeast and stir to dis­solve. Add the flour and mix with a wooden spoon un­til a smooth bat­ter forms. Cover the bowl with a clean, dry kitchen towel and let the mix­ture rise un­til al­most dou­bled in vol­ume, 2½–3 hours at room tem­per­a­ture or overnight in the re­frig­er­a­tor.

3 Make the dough: Trans­fer the prefer­ment to the large bowl of a stand mixer fit­ted with the dough hook. Set the milk, flour, sugar, salt, and melted but­ter nearby. Add the yeast to the prefer­ment and mix on low speed, stop­ping to scrape down the sides of the bowl and bring to­gether the in­gre­di­ents as needed, un­til the yeast is in­cor­po­rated and the mix­ture is an even, well-mixed mass, about 2 min­utes. Raise the speed to medium, and while mix­ing, slowly add half of the milk. Con­tinue to mix un­til fully in­cor­po­rated. Turn off the mixer, then add the flour, sugar, salt, melted but­ter, and the re­main­ing half of the milk. Mix on low speed un­til a loose dough forms, about 2 min­utes. Re­turn the speed to medium and mix un­til the dough is smooth and co­he­sive, 2 min­utes more. Re­move the hook and cover the bowl with a clean, dry kitchen towel. Let rise in a cool place un­til the vol­ume has in­creased by nearly half, about 1½ hours.

4 Trans­fer the dough to a lightly floured work sur­face and form it into a rough rec­tan­gle about 2 inches thick. Wrap tightly in plas­tic wrap and re­frig­er­ate un­til chilled through, 3–4 hours.

5 One hour be­fore lam­i­nat­ing the dough, make your but­ter sheet. Place a large sheet of parch­ment pa­per or plas­tic wrap on a work sur­face. Add the but­ter to the cen­ter in a neat pile, then cover with a sec­ond sheet. Use a rolling pin to flat­ten and form the but­ter into a 12x18½-inch rec­tan­gle, peel­ing back the top sheet to ma­nip­u­late the but­ter into shape as needed. Re­frig­er­ate to lightly chill but not fully reso­lid­ify, 5–10 min­utes.

6 Lam­i­nate the dough: Lightly flour a work sur­face. Re­trieve and un­wrap the dough, then roll it out to a 28x12-inch rec­tan­gle. With a long side fac­ing you, peel the top sheet away from the but­ter and flip it over to cover the left two-thirds of the rec­tan­gle. Peel away the other sheet. Fold the un­cov­ered third of the dough over the but­ter, then fold the left-hand third over the cen­ter, as if fold­ing a busi­ness let­ter. With your fin­gers, push down along the seams on the top and the bot­tom to seal in the but­ter. Give the dough a quar­ter turn so that the seams are per­pen­dic­u­lar to you. Roll out the dough once more into a 28x12-inch rec­tan­gle, and fold again in the same man­ner (no need to pinch the seams again). Wrap in plas­tic wrap and re­frig­er­ate for 1 hour to re­lax the gluten in the dough.

7 Clean the work sur­face, dust again lightly with flour, and re­trieve the dough. Un­wrap and again roll out into a rec­tan­gle 28x12 inches. Fold into thirds so that the rec­tan­gle mea­sures 9x12 inches and 1½–2 inches thick. Wrap in plas­tic and im­me­di­ately freeze on a flat sur­face for at least 1 hour or up to 1 week. (If frozen for more than an hour, trans­fer the dough to the re­frig­er­a­tor to thaw overnight be­fore us­ing in the morn­ing.)

8 Three hours be­fore you are ready to serve, form and proof the crois­sants: Re­move the thawed dough from the re­frig­er­a­tor. Line 3 bak­ing sheets with parch­ment pa­per and set aside. Lightly dust a work sur­face with flour and roll into a 12x40-inch rec­tan­gle about ⅛ inch thick. Use a straight edge and a par­ing knife or pizza cut­ter to care­fully trim 1 inch from each of the long sides; save for an­other use. Cut the re­main­ing dough into 14 tri­an­gles, 4 inches at the base and 10 inches tall. Working one at a time, stretch the tri­an­gles slightly to ex­tend them

to 11 inches. Then, start­ing at the base, roll each tightly all the way to the tip to form an even, straight-armed crois­sant shape. Press slightly at the tip to ad­here and to make a slightly flat­tened base for the crois­sant to rest on. Con­tinue rolling the crois­sants in this man­ner, then trans­fer them, spaced evenly apart and flat­tened side down on the prepared bak­ing sheets (no more than 6 crois­sants per bak­ing sheet).

9 Pre­heat the oven to 400° and set the racks at least 4 inches apart. (If you only have room for 2 racks, the crois­sants should be baked in 2 rounds.) Set a large, wide bak­ing dish filled with wa­ter on the floor of the oven. Place the bak­ing sheets in a warm, prefer­ably hu­mid spot and let rise un­til the crois­sants are puffed, very gassy, and about dou­bled in size (they should slowly spring back when poked with your fin­ger­tip and jig­gle slightly like gelatin when the tray is shaken), 60–80 min­utes.

10 In a small bowl, beat the yolks and heavy cream. Brush the risen crois­sants evenly with the mix­ture and bake, with­out open­ing the oven, un­til the crois­sants be­gin to color, 20–22 min­utes. Ro­tate the pans and con­tinue cook­ing un­til evenly golden, 6–8 min­utes more. Let cool slightly be­fore serv­ing.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from USA

© PressReader. All rights reserved.