Peruvian “Street Cart” Ceviche (Ceviche Carretillero)
(Ceviche Carretillero) SERVES 4 • photo p. 39 Active: 1 hr. • Total: 2 hr.
Versions of this dish, Lima’s iconic ceviche, are served around the city at beaches, parks, and markets. Chef John Evans Ravenna of Barra Lima sprinkles his with fried quinoa—long grown in Peru—and whimsical foraged garnishes such as edible flowers and seaweeds. For ease, you can leave off the glazed sweet potato, though it provides welcome relief from the spicy ají limo chile. 14 oz. white fish fillet such as fluke, seabass, flounder, or sole 1 small sweet potato (4 oz.) ¾ cup fresh orange juice ¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. sugar ⅓ cup plus 3 Tbsp. lime juice, divided 3 Tbsp. passion fruit purée or strained fresh passion fruit pulp Kosher salt and ground white pepper 1½ tsp. ají limo paste ⅔ cup very thinly sliced red onion 2 Tbsp. cilantro leaves, finely chopped ⅓ cup Leche de Tigre (recipe follows) ½ cup choclo (large-kernel Peruvian corn), blanched according to package directions, then chilled ½ cup toasted chullpi corn Crispy Quinoa (recipe opposite),
1 At least 2 hours and up to 1 day before serving, rinse the fish. Pat dry. Cut into ½-inch cubes. Spread out on a baking sheet and refrigerate, uncovered, for 2 hours or up to 1 day. (If longer than 2 hours, top with parchment paper.)
2 Make the sweet potato: Set a steamer in a small pot and add the potato. Cover and steam over medium heat until barely softened, 10–12 minutes. Remove and let cool slightly. Discard the peel, then cut the potato into 1⁄2-inch slices.
3 In a medium skillet, combine the orange juice, sugar, 3 tablespoons of lime juice, and the passion fruit; bring to a simmer over medium heat. Cook at a low simmer until syrupy, 8–10 minutes. Add the potato slices and cook, flipping and basting with the sauce occasionally, until the potato is tender and the liquid is reduced to a thick glaze, 10–14 minutes more. Transfer to a shallow bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and chill.
4 To serve, in a chilled bowl, add the fish and a pinch each of salt and white pepper. Let stand for 30 seconds, then add the remaining lime juice and ají limo paste, and stir for 10 seconds to combine. Stir in the onion, cilantro, and ⅓ cup of the prepared leche de tigre (save any remaining liquid for another use). Place a few slices of glazed sweet potato beside the fish, then add the choclo and chullpi corn in piles around the plate. Sprinkle with the crispy quinoa, if using, and serve immediately.