Peru­vian “Street Cart” Ce­viche (Ce­viche Car­retillero)

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(Ce­viche Car­retillero) SERVES 4 • photo p. 39 Ac­tive: 1 hr. • To­tal: 2 hr.

Ver­sions of this dish, Lima’s iconic ce­viche, are served around the city at beaches, parks, and mar­kets. Chef John Evans Ravenna of Barra Lima sprin­kles his with fried quinoa—long grown in Peru—and whim­si­cal for­aged gar­nishes such as ed­i­ble flow­ers and sea­weeds. For ease, you can leave off the glazed sweet potato, though it pro­vides wel­come re­lief from the spicy ají limo chile. 14 oz. white fish fil­let such as fluke, seabass, floun­der, or sole 1 small sweet potato (4 oz.) ¾ cup fresh or­ange juice ¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. sugar ⅓ cup plus 3 Tbsp. lime juice, di­vided 3 Tbsp. pas­sion fruit purée or strained fresh pas­sion fruit pulp Kosher salt and ground white pep­per 1½ tsp. ají limo paste ⅔ cup very thinly sliced red onion 2 Tbsp. cilantro leaves, finely chopped ⅓ cup Leche de Ti­gre (recipe fol­lows) ½ cup choclo (large-ker­nel Peru­vian corn), blanched ac­cord­ing to pack­age di­rec­tions, then chilled ½ cup toasted chullpi corn Crispy Quinoa (recipe op­po­site),

op­tional

1 At least 2 hours and up to 1 day be­fore serv­ing, rinse the fish. Pat dry. Cut into ½-inch cubes. Spread out on a bak­ing sheet and re­frig­er­ate, un­cov­ered, for 2 hours or up to 1 day. (If longer than 2 hours, top with parch­ment pa­per.)

2 Make the sweet potato: Set a steamer in a small pot and add the potato. Cover and steam over medium heat un­til barely soft­ened, 10–12 min­utes. Re­move and let cool slightly. Dis­card the peel, then cut the potato into 1⁄2-inch slices.

3 In a medium skil­let, com­bine the or­ange juice, sugar, 3 ta­ble­spoons of lime juice, and the pas­sion fruit; bring to a sim­mer over medium heat. Cook at a low sim­mer un­til syrupy, 8–10 min­utes. Add the potato slices and cook, flip­ping and bast­ing with the sauce oc­ca­sion­ally, un­til the potato is ten­der and the liq­uid is re­duced to a thick glaze, 10–14 min­utes more. Trans­fer to a shal­low bowl, cover with plas­tic wrap, and chill.

4 To serve, in a chilled bowl, add the fish and a pinch each of salt and white pep­per. Let stand for 30 se­conds, then add the re­main­ing lime juice and ají limo paste, and stir for 10 se­conds to com­bine. Stir in the onion, cilantro, and ⅓ cup of the pre­pared leche de ti­gre (save any re­main­ing liq­uid for another use). Place a few slices of glazed sweet potato be­side the fish, then add the choclo and chullpi corn in piles around the plate. Sprin­kle with the crispy quinoa, if us­ing, and serve im­me­di­ately.

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