One May, a rare guest turned up on an island off the coast of Tromsø. I watched this young male walrus from a distance for weeks. When he finally approached, he gently stroked my hand with his whiskers; I named him Buddy. I visited him for the next month and a half and got to know his personality. I could tell whether he was grumpy or if he was having fun. Buddy would tease me by splashing me with water — as he’s doing here during a midnight summer swim.