There are still plenty of bark-eating powderhounds who adore Jay. It’s just harder to see them now. For one, they’re in the trees every run—off-piste glades and deep snowpack are still Jay specialties. But today the resort attracts a new crowd, drawn by all the new amenities, including three big hotels, a hockey rink, and a massive waterpark. Today’s visitor is as likely to be in town for a hockey tournament, or just to play in the pool, as to hit the slopes.