Plen­ti­ful hot (and some­times cold) springs, called on­sens, are scat­tered through­out the vol­canic moun­tains of Hokkaido. Al­most all re­quire that men and women stay in sep­a­rate ar­eas and for vis­i­tors to take dips strictly in their birth­day suits. Ho­tel sen­tos in Sap­poro and Rusutsu are a great taste of Ja­panese bathing cul­ture, but the real-deal, min­er­al­rich on­sens in small vil­lages and moun­tain cor­ners are worth seek­ing out af­ter a day of ski­ing. Got ink? Be sure to ask each on­sen about its tat­too pol­icy be­fore pay­ing, or seek out kashikiri-buro, pri­vate baths that are suit­able for tat­toos and those un­com­fort­able with nude bathing around strangers.

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