Street Trucks - - TECH -

01 First, we needed to get the wheels off to ac­cess the brakes. Al­ways use jack stands rated to han­dle the weight of a full-size truck. Never crawl un­der a truck that’s sup­ported by a floor jack only. With the wheels off the ground and the truck safely on stands, we re­moved the cur­rent wheel-and-tire combo. One thing to keep in mind when se­lect­ing new brakes is that CPP’S Big Brake Kit will re­quire a larger wheel di­am­e­ter. In our case, min­i­mum wheel size is 17 inches. 02 Here’s a look at our cur­rent sus­pen­sion. We’ve al­ready up­graded it. You can find more info on the job in a pre­vi­ous is­sue (May 2017, “Classic Drop,” pg. 90). 03 Since this brake kit comes com­plete with a new mod­u­lar spin­dle, we be­gan the disassembly by re­mov­ing the steer­ing tie rod. The tie rod is held in place by a cas­tle nut, which has a cot­ter pin in­serted through the joint. Once the pin is re­moved, the nut is loos­ened and re­moved. 04 We used a sledge­ham­mer on the spin­dle to break the ta­per free and re­move the tie rod.

05 With the tie rod re­moved, the spin­dle turned freely out of the way so that we could ac­cess the brake line on the frame rail. We re­moved the clip from in­side of the frame rail, al­low­ing us to pull the line through the frame. A pair of line wrenches made quick work of re­mov­ing the rub­ber brake line from the hard line that runs along the frame rail.

06 Now we could re­move the spin­dle, start­ing with the lower ball joint fol­lowed by the up­per ball joint. Th­ese are as­sem­bled just like the tie rod ends, with a cas­tle nut and cot­ter pin, so re­mov­ing them is ex­actly the same. No­tice we have sup­ported the lower con­trol arm with a floor jack; this will keep the coil spring from shoot­ing out at us when the ball joints are freed.

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