THE SETUP

Street Trucks - - TECH -

05

First, the AP techs slapped the bell hous­ing on with­out the fly­wheel or clutch. The trans was hoisted up to see what kind of clear­ances there were for the tun­nel. Turns out, a lit­tle ham­mer­ing was needed just at the vent tube (a com­mon is­sue with TKOS). One of the ways AP gets these larger trans­mis­sions to fit into older ve­hi­cles is to min­i­mize the trans­mis­sion case. AP also of­fers fiber­glass tun­nel humps for many trucks like this one. Six-speeds will need a larger tun­nel open­ing.

06

The trans on the left is a stock-out-of-the-box TREMEC TKO. The trans on the right has been min­i­mized by

AP. You can see the cor­ners on the top of the trans have been cut down for bet­ter tun­nel clear­ance. The shifter was re­placed with a White Light­ning short-throw shifter that also serves as for­ward shift po­si­tion to clear a bench seat.

THESE PRO-FIT KITS COME COM­PLETE WITH EV­ERY­THING YOU NEED TO GET A MAN­UAL FIVE-SPEED TRANS­MIS­SION BE­HIND YOUR V-8.”

07

Once the tun­nel clear­ance was checked and the shifter lo­ca­tion was set up, the X-fac­tor univer­sal ad­justable cross mem­ber was in­stalled. AP has these in three sizes that ad­just to fit frame widths from 20 to 34 inches. We used the widest, which ad­justs from 32 to 34 inches; this al­lows you to set the height for the right driv­e­line an­gle and uses a stan­dard GM trans­mis­sion iso­la­tor. The cross mem­ber also al­lows ad­e­quate ex­haust clear­ance for low­ered trucks. Sim­ply slide the plates to the frame, mark the holes and drill us­ing the sup­plied grade 8 hard­ware.

08

The cross mem­ber was set to the right driv­e­line an­gle. TREMEC calls for plus or mi­nus 3 de­grees to avoid vi­bra­tion. A cheap mag­netic an­gle finder makes it easy to set the an­gle.

09

Now the real fun be­gins. Once the mock-up was done and the trans was re­moved, it was time to start the in­stal­la­tion. One crit­i­cal pro­ce­dure is to dial-in­di­cate your bell hous­ing. This is very im­por­tant for en­sur­ing the bell is cen­tered on the en­gine so the in­put shaft lines up straight with the crank. This is crit­i­cal for trans­mis­sion longevity. AP has how-to videos and in­struc­tions to get this right.

10

Once the bell was checked, it was re­moved so that the fly­wheel and clutch could be in­stalled. The AP tech made sure to torque ev­ery­thing down to spec.

11

Then it was time for more math.

This time it was for the hy­draulic clutch bear­ing. Once the bell and clutch were in­stalled, the dis­tance from the pres­sure plate fin­gers to the edge of the bell was mea­sured to de­ter­mine the amount of space avail­able to in­stall the bear­ing.

12

The Hy­dra­max hy­draulic clutch kit al­lows many dif­fer­ent clutch com­bi­na­tions.

The key is tak­ing mea­sure­ments and set­ting the depth cor­rectly for your setup. The specs are .150-inch air gap be­tween the bear­ing and the pres­sure plate fin­gers. The mea­sure­ments will de­ter­mine the num­ber of shims you need to set it cor­rectly for long clutch and bear­ing life. Once again, AP has all of the in­struc­tions and videos to make this a sim­ple task. You will need a dig­i­tal caliper for the job.

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