Street Trucks - - TECH -

If you are look­ing for the hottest new prod­ucts for your 1947 to 1954 GM truck, LS Fab­ri­ca­tion of­fers cus­tom parts and bead-rolled sheet metal for your ad­vance de­sign era truck. Its pop­u­lar fire­wall fillers and other bead-rolled pan­els of­fer a cus­tom look for clas­sic Chevy and GMC pick­ups. LS Fab­ri­ca­tion is an ex­pand­ing com­pany owned and op­er­ated by Chris Lange and Kris Hauser, who de­sign, man­u­fac­ture and ship their prod­uct all over North Amer­ica and other ar­eas of the world. These pan­els are per­fect for ev­ery­one, in­clud­ing pro­fes­sional shops to do-it-your­self builders who are look­ing for a cus­tom touch with­out break­ing the bank. Fol­low along as we watch them in­stall a fire­wall first hand.

02 Place filler panel onto the out­side of driver and pas­sen­ger side fire­wall and check fit­ment. Take a per­ma­nent marker and go along the edge of the filler, plac­ing a ref­er­ence line on the ex­ist­ing fire­wall. Do the same for both driver and pas­sen­ger. Next, take a cut off wheel or elec­tric grinder with a cut off disk to re­move the fac­tory fire­wall. They cut in­board roughly 1/2 -inch along the marked ref­er­ence line. Tip: You can use 1/2-inch mask­ing tape as a guide for spac­ing. 03 Two braces go along the in­side of the fire­wall down along an an­gle on ei­ther side of the engine tun­nel.You will need to sep­a­rate the braces from the orig­i­nal fire­wall sheet metal. Next take a 5/16-inch drill bit and drill out the spot welds along the out­side of the fire­wall that at­tach the sheet metal to the braces. At this point you should be able to sep­a­rate the old fire­wall from the cab.

01 First, re­move any im­ped­ing wires, bolts, screws and or braces from the out­side wall and the in­side of cab. There should be no in­te­rior, wires, or ob­struct­ing parts or ma­te­ri­als that could dam­age or catch fire.

05Place the filler panel onto the open­ing un­til it is lined up with the top edge and out­side edge. You can now tack weld the filler pan­els into place. Slight trim­ming may need to be done to the mid­dle of the fire­wall where the two fillers meet roughly 1 inch of ma­te­rial was left for cab di­ver­sity.

07 Once the fire­wall in­stall is com­plete, the paint is sprayed and the mo­tor has been put back in place, it’s clear that the time and ef­fort was worth the re­ward.

04Hav­ing a ½-inch lip around the ex­ist­ing fire­wall will al­low you to have a slight edge for the new fillers to rest for weld­ing. Clean the perime­ter of the old fire­wall with a grind­ing disk or some sort of abra­sive tool to re­move old paint. You will need nice, clean metal for weld­ing.

06 If you’re happy with place­ment of the fillers, con­tinue to tack weld them by go­ing around the perime­ter in 1-inch in­ter­vals to min­i­mize warp­ing. Now that the fillers are welded, you can grind down your welds and prep for body­work.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from USA

© PressReader. All rights reserved.