CEN­TRAL BROWARD

Sun Sentinel Palm Beach Edition - Showtime - Palm Beach - - DINING -

Mod­er­ate. Re­viewed 8-31-16. Si­cil­ian Oven – 801S. Uni­ver­sity Dr., Plan­ta­tion. 954533-1047. A grow­ing re­gional chain that does pizza and other Ital­ian spe­cial­ties right, in­clud­ing oven-roasted chicken wings, Si­cil­ian rice balls and meat­balls. A good place for fam­i­lies and large groups. Lunch, din­ner. In­ex­pen­sive-mod­er­ate. Re­viewed 4-7-17.

Latin/Mex­i­can/Span­ish

La Union Mex­i­can Bak­ery — 7796 Wiles Road, Coral Springs; 954-757-0702. Ali­cia Ni­eto makes more than 40 kinds of Mex­i­can-style bread and pas­try, but she also serves a con­cise and in­ex­pen­sive menu of tacos, bur­ri­tos, tamales and en­chi­ladas. The set­ting is no-frills. The ser­vice is more than friendly. In­ex­pen­sive. Break­fast, lunch, din­ner. Re­viewed10-2-15.

Mid­dle Eastern

Kababi Café by Ku­luck – 3828 N. Uni­ver­sity Dr., Sun­rise, 954-909-4133. Tasty bites, won­der­ful aro­mas, warm hos­pi­tal­ity and a shaker of sumac on ev­ery ta­ble await at this Per­sian gem tucked in a cor­ner of a worn strip mall. Buf­fet lunches of­fer good value, and stews, ke­babs and aro­matic rice dishes spiked with sweet and sour fruits shine at din­ner. Mod­er­ate. Lunch, din­ner. Re­viewed 8-4-17.

Amer­i­can

Bee­hive Kitchen – 6312 N. An­drews Ave., Fort Laud­erdale, 954-541-8787. The bowl craze tak­ing flight at many fast ca­sual eater­ies is also abuzz at Bee­hive, where qual­ity ingredients with global in­flu­ences and bold sea­son­ing make for very sat­is­fy­ing meals. Or­der­ing can be con­fus­ing with all the op­tions. The sweet potato glass noo­dles with shred­ded pork is ex­cel­lent. In­ex­pen­sive. Lunch, din­ner. Re­viewed 7-26-17. Boat­yard — 1555 SE17th St., Fort Laud­erdale, 954-5257400. The for­mer Bi­mini Boat­yard has been reimag­ined as a con­tem­po­rary seafood restau­rant that re­flects yachting bona fides. Names of lo­cal fish­er­men are listed on the menu. The set­ting on a yacht-filled canal is mag­i­cal. Ex­pen­sive. Lunch, din­ner, brunch. Re­viewed11-27-15. Bub­bles & Pearls – 2037 Wil­ton Dr., Wil­ton Manors. 954-533-9553. Ef­fer­ves­cent chef-owner Josie Smith Malave, a past “Top Chef” con­tes­tant, says Cham­pagne and oys­ters should be en­joyed daily and not just for spe­cial oc­ca­sions. Her first-time restau­rant ven­ture, ca­sual and a bit cramped, also scores with de­li­cious dishes such as pork belly bis­cuits, roasted bone mar­row, miso cau­li­flower and brick chicken. Din­ner. Moder­a­te­ex­pen­sive. Re­viewed 3-24-17. The Mer­maid Bar —2442 E. Sun­rise Blvd., Fort Laud­erdale, 954-396-4520. On the up­per level of the Neiman Mar­cus at Gal­le­ria Mall, this throw­back eatery spe­cial­izes in light lunches in a set­ting that is more Wool­worth lunch counter than Four Sea­sons. Lunch, early din­ner. Mod­er­ate. Re­viewed 8-29-16. One Door East — 620 S. Fed­eral High­way, Fort Laud­erdale, 954-368-6902. A global small plates eatery in a con­verted garage next to Valentino Cucina Ital­iana. Valentino chef-owner Gio­vanni Roc­chio hired tal­ented chef Jeremy Bear­man, who earned a Miche­lin star in New York, to run the kitchen at One Door East, and he’s turn­ing out in­ven­tive, ever-chang­ing dishes in a loud, in­dus­trial set­ting. Ex­pen­sive. Din­ner. Re­viewed12-9-16. Revenant Cof­fee House and Eatery – 2301NE 26th St., Fort Laud­erdale, 954-947-7509. Funky spot in­side Cargo Fur­ni­ture with light meals and bev­er­ages brewed by Ma­tias Jurgeit, co­founder of the Al­chemist. Jurgeit built an out­door clay oven to bake pas­tries and bread, and the pa­tio has a lovely view of the Mid­dle River. In­ex­pen­sive. Break­fast, lunch. Re­viewed 6-7-17. River­side Mar­ket South — 3218 SE 6th Ave., Fort Laud­erdale, 954-524-8986. While it doesn’t have the charm of the orig­i­nal River­side Mar­ket, it has 32 draft lines and 300 kinds of bot­tled beer with a bar food menu of wings, tacos, sand­wiches, burg­ers and fries. In­ex­pen­sive-mod­er­ate. Lunch, din­ner. Re­viewed 9-9-15. Spatch Grilled Peri-Peri Chicken – 3848 N. Fed­eral Hwy., Fort Laud­erdale. 954607-1703. A fast-ca­sual eatery where hum­ble bird is en­livened with African Bird’s eye chili pep­per mari­nade and sauce that is down­right ad­dic­tive. Be­side chicken plat­ters, bowls, sand­wiches and sal­ads, there are cre­ative, tasty sides. Lunch, din­ner. In­ex­pen­sive. Re­viewed 4-19-17. Steak 954 – 401N. Fort Laud­erdale Beach Blvd., (in­side the WHo­tel), Fort Laud­erdale. 954-414-8333. The price of the gim­micky cheeses­teak has dropped (from $100 to $65), but nearly ev­ery­thing else re­mains the same at Stephen Starr’s de­pend­able meat-driven, jel­ly­fish tank adorned show­place over­look­ing Fort Laud­erdale Beach. Desserts are stel­lar. Break­fast, lunch, din­ner. Very ex­pen­sive. Re­viewed 1-27-17. YOLO — 333 E. Las Olas Blvd., Fort Laud­erdale, 954-5231000. Its some­thing-for-ev­ery­one menu, out­stand­ing ser­vice and sharply dec­o­rated din­ing room keep the ta­bles full for busi­ness lunches and ca­sual din­ners. Mod­er­ate-ex­pen­sive. Din­ner, lunch, brunch. Re­viewed 9-24-14.

Asian

SuViche — 401E. Las Olas Blvd., Fort Laud­erdale, 954656-3663. (also at 49 SW11th St., Mi­ami, 305-960-7097; 2751 N. Mi­ami Ave, Mi­ami, 305-5015010; 111916th St., Mi­ami Beach, 305-777-3555). This Peru­vian-Ja­panese hy­brid al­lows din­ers to taste the Ja­panese in­flu­ence in Peru­vian food. There are also lots of fa­mil­iar sushi rolls, all served in a bright con­vivial set­ting per­fect for groups. Mod­er­ate. Lunch, din­ner. Re­viewed 10-9-15. What the Pho? — 2033 Wil­ton Drive, Wil­ton Manors, 754779-7769. Huey Nguyen comes from a Mi­ami restau­rant fam­ily who opened their first Viet­namese restau­rant, Miss Saigon, more than 20 years ago. In Wil­ton Manors, Nguyen puts more em­pha­sis on de­li­cious meal-in­one bowls of pho. Don’t over­look the more re­fined of­fer­ings, from fresh spring rolls to sev­eral dishes fea­tur­ing fresh wa­ter­cress. Mod­er­ate-ex­pen­sive. Din­ner, lunch. Re­viewed10-3-15.

Greek

Nisi – 3330 E. Oak­land Park Blvd., Fort Laud­erdale. 954200-6006. Take a trip to the Mediter­ranean, with fish and rare sea treats flown in daily from Europe and priced by the pound, and en­joy mod­ern twists on Greek clas­sics at this com­fort­able, up­scale eatery that brings a splash of San­torini to Galt Ocean Mile. Din­ner. Ex­pen­sive to very ex­pen­sive. Re­viewed1-13-17.

Ital­ian

Caffe Europa — 910 E. Las Olas Blvd., Fort Laud­erdale, 954-763-6600. You may be tempted to be­gin your meal with dessert at this 26-year-old for­mer pas­try shop. Now an Ital­ian restau­rant and wine bar, Caffe Europa spe­cial­izes in fresh ingredients, at­ten­tive ser­vice and lo­cally made but still out-of-this­world desserts. Mod­er­ate-ex­pen­sive. Lunch, din­ner. Re­viewed 2-12-16. NewRiver Pizza and Grill — 701S. Fed­eral High­way, Fort Laud­erdale, 954-618-7000. Once just a take­out pizze­ria, this ca­sual neigh­bor­hood spot now of­fers pasta and other Ital­ian en­trees. In­ex­pen­sive-mod­er­ate. Lunch, din­ner. Piz­za­craft — 330 Him­marshee St., Fort Laud­erdale, 954-616-8028. Ca­sual but classy, this down­town restau­rant spe­cial­izes in wood-fired piz­zas and grav­ity-strong cock­tails poured in the ad­join­ing Apothe­cary 330, a speakeasy-style bar. Moder­a­te­ex­pen­sive. Lunch, din­ner. Re­viewed1-1-16.

Latin/Mex­i­can/Span­ish

Buenos Aires Café — 2364 N. Fed­eral High­way, Fort Laud­erdale, 954-900-3361. The owner of Aven­tura’s pop­u­lar La Es­tan­cia Ar­gentina has a part­ner in this meat­cen­tric Ar­gen­tine café, where very good sal­ads, sand­wiches and desserts join skirt steak, chorizo and other grilled meats. Break­fast, lunch, din­ner. Mod­er­ate-ex­pen­sive. Re­viewed 9-23-5. Cabo Blanco Restau­rant — 1672 E. Oak­land Park Blvd., Oak­land Park. This un­fussy Peru­vian restau­rant serves food that sticks in the mind and belly. Don’t be sur­prised to find a soc­cer game on the TVs here and no one rush­ing you out the door. Lunch, din­ner, brunch Sun­days. Re­viewed 2-5-16. Café Seville — 2768 E. Oak­land Park Blvd., Fort Laud­erdale, 954-565-1148. While it some­times seems more Mi­lan than Madrid, this hap­pily stuck-in­time Span­ish restau­rant is de­li­cious all the same. Span­ish, Euro­pean/Ital­ian. Lunch, din­ner. Mod­er­ate-ex­pen­sive. Re­viewed 8-10-2016.

Seafood

Bur­lock Coast — 1N. Fort Laud­erdale Beach Blvd., Fort Laud­erdale, 954-302-6460. Lo­cated at the Ritz-Carl­ton, this is a beach­side eatery of­fers a vibe that is more un­pre­ten­tious party than exclusive club. Try the smoked fish dip. Ex­pen­sive. Break­fast, lunch, din­ner. Re­viewed 4-1-16. Poke House – 666 N. Fed­eral Hwy., Fort Laud­erdale. 754200-4555. High-qual­ity bowls of raw mar­i­nated fish will lure sushi and seafood lovers to this ca­sual Hawai­ian surf-themed spot. Tuna, salmon and Ha­machi are served over rice, kale or quinoa. Lunch, din­ner. In­ex­pen­sive-mod­er­ate. Re­viewed 3-29-17. Sea Watch on the Ocean — 6002 N. Ocean Blvd., Fort Laud­erdale, 954-781-2200. In busi­ness since 1974, this ocean­front restau­rant boasts a post­card-per­fect view, fresh food and de­pend­able ser­vice. Moder­a­te­ex­pen­sive. Lunch, din­ner. Re­viewed 5-27-16. 7400. A hole-in-the-wall restau­rant creating fla­vors that will make food­ies swoon. The in­ven­tive fare in­cludes Reuben egg rolls, oc­to­pus-and-shrimp ce­viche and a pork-and-beans en­trée. In­ex­pen­sive-mod­er­ate. Lunch, din­ner. Re­viewed 4-22-16. J72 Chef’s Cafe— 3712 Davie Road, Davie, 954-908-5608. Chefs Joel Ramos and Sa­muel In­fan­tas have in­deed cre­ated a chef’s cafe. They are servers, chefs and masters of ce­viche, guava chicken wings and an amaz­ing burger made with Kobe beef and lamb with arepas in place of buns. The place is small, with just 20 tight seats, In­ex­pen­sive-mod­er­ate. Lunch, din­ner. Re­viewed10-7-15. Ju­niper on the Wa­ter — 1975 S. Ocean Drive, Hal­lan­dale Beach, 954-544-3370. This restau­rant’s In­tra­coastal view and the stylish in­te­rior make you for­get you’re in­side a condo building. The menu is heavy on such clas­sics as seafood paella, lamb shank, steaks and fresh fish of day pre­pared a la plan­cha. The early Sun­set Menu is well worth a look. Mod­er­ate-ex­pen­sive. Din­ner, brunch. Re­viewed10-2-15. JWB Prime Steak and Seafood – 1111N. Ocean Drive, Hol­ly­wood, 954-874-4462. The fine din­ing restau­rant at the Mar­gar­i­taville Hol­ly­wood Beach Re­sort bears the ini­tials of James Wil­liam (Jimmy) Buf­fett and features solid food and pol­ished ser­vice in a re­laxed re­sort-ca­sual set­ting. The chops and seafood out­shine the steaks, and don’t miss the spear-caught lo­cal fish of the day. Very ex­pen­sive. Din­ner. Re­viewed12-23-16. Kristof’s Kafe, 8912 W. State Road 84, Davie, 954-475-8977. Cozy break­fast-lunch spot in the Pine Island Ridge Plaza serv­ing com­fort clas­sics such as bis­cuits and gravy and corned beef hash, and crunchy de­lights such as straw­berry stuffed French toast, waf­fles and que­sadil­las. Be pre­pared to wait on week­ends. In­ex­pen­sive. Re­viewed 9-21-16. Sonny’s Fa­mous Steak Ho­gies — 1857 N. 66th Ave., Hol­ly­wood, 954-989-0561. Since 1958, the Ni­gro fam­ily has been bak­ing fresh bread, sim­mer­ing sauce and crank­ing out cheese steaks from a cash-only spot that is hap­pily stuck in time. The chicken parme­san and burger subs are ex­cel­lent. Lunch, din­ner. In­ex­pen­sive. Re­viewed 3-8-17.

Asian

Bran­don Asian Cui­sine — 6417 Stir­ling Road, Davie, 954-908-5153. Pho is the main rea­son to visit this Davie restau-

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