Le Sirenuse

Sun Sentinel Palm Beach Edition - Showtime - Palm Beach - - DINING -

9011 Collins Ave., Surf­side (in the Four Sea­sons Surf Club) 786-482-2280 or SirenuseMi­ami.com Cui­sine: Cost: Hours: Break­fast 7-11 a.m. daily. Lunch noon-3 p.m. daily. Din­ner 7-11 p.m. Sun­day-Thurs­day, 6:30-11:30 p.m. Fri­day-Satur­day Reser­va­tions: Re­quired for Credit cards: Bar: Sound level: Con­ver­sa­tional, can get loud when full Wheel­chair ac­cess: Ground level Park­ing: $12 valet with val­i­da­tion strug­gle, I sum­moned our server and re­quested a spoon.

“It’s a soup, a chilled moz­zarella with a tomato tartare,” Mer­mo­lia says in a fol­lowup in­ter­view. He says a spoon should have been pro­vided up­front.

It tasted fine, but ap­pro­pri­ate uten­sils would have been nice. At th­ese prices, I wanted per­fec­tion. There were many ex­quis­ite and beau­ti­ful plates, in­clud­ing a New Zealand lan­gous­tine tartare ($26) with shaved fen­nel, or­ange zest and black olives, and a Mediter­ranean oc­to­pus main course ($36) fea­tur­ing a fine stew of tomato broth, pota­toes, olives, spicy pep­pers and oc­to­pus chunks that take three days to pre­pare, in­clud­ing a 45-minute hand mas­sage to soften and seven hours in a low-tem­per­a­ture oven. Mer­malia, 32, has a way with seafood and pas­tas, some­thing you’d ex­pect from a chef born in Cal­abria who has spent time at La Sponda and who be­came fa­mil­iar with Amer­ica work­ing at sev­eral restau­rants in New York.

Also good was fagot­tello Gen­ovese ($32), a house­made pasta of lit­tle purses stuffed with pul­ver-

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