Oc­cu­pa­tional Hazard

Surfer - - Contents -

A freesurfer, big-wave charger and two com­pet­i­tive phe­noms break down their worst surf in­juries

For most worka­day surfers, in­juries in the water are rare. Sure, we oc­ca­sion­ally col­lide with our boards, fins, a chunk of reef or a stranger (mostly the lat­ter if you surf Tres­tles). But through­out our surf lives, most of us re­ceive rel­a­tively few in­juries in the lineup, and fewer still that have any last­ing ef­fects. Pro surfers, on the other hand, are paid to push them­selves as hard as hu­manly pos­si­ble in the water, which leads to mo­ments of bril­liance above the lip if you’re a world-class freesurfer, or in­side a cav­ernous tube if you’re an un­hinged big-wave rider. It also typ­i­cally leads to a laun­dry list of in­juries.

A freesurfer, big-wave charger and two com­pet­i­tive phe­noms break down their worst surf in­juries

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