Surfer - - Culture - — Photo by EL­LIS

Take Dane Reynolds for ex­am­ple: Reynolds is known for send­ing him­self sky­ward on the most daunt­ing sec­tions, and con­tort­ing into all sorts of un­nat­u­ral po­si­tions while blast­ing his tail through the lip and swing­ing it to­ward the beach. And while that’s all made for some ex­tremely cap­ti­vat­ing surf footage, it’s also sent him to the hos­pi­tal more than a few times. “I think the worst was maybe a high an­kle sprain I got in my early ‘20s,” says Reynolds. “‘I’d never stretched or been in a gym or even thought about phys­i­cal ther­apy, so it took for­ever to heal just ‘cause I wasn’t ed­u­cated on the work that goes into fix­ing that stuff.”

1 High an­kle sprain

2 MCL tears

3 Knee surgery

4 Torn car­ti­lage

5 T12 ver­te­brae frac­ture

6 Bro­ken hand

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