Surfer - - Culture - — Photo by EL­LIS

As one of the world’s most fear­less big-wave surfers, Mark Healey has sub­jected his bones, mus­cles and car­ti­lage to ab­surd amounts of abuse—on pur­pose. He’s done the same as a stunt­man in Hol­ly­wood, but con­sid­ers that a far less dan­ger­ous pur­suit than big-wave rid­ing. “Stunt work is a bit more con­trolled at least. I’ve hurt my­self more in big waves for sure,” he says. “Most of my in­juries have hap­pened at Jaws, Pipe, and Teahupoo. I’ve lost a lot of skin at those places.” 1 Frac­tured heel 2 Frac­tured kneecap 3 Dis­lo­cated hip 4 Frac­tured ribs 5 Sep­a­rated car­ti­lage in ster­num 6 Rup­tured blood ves­sels in lungs 7 Per­fo­rated eardrum x 4 8 Fin gashes 9 Mus­cle tear 10 Reef lac­er­a­tion 11 Con­cus­sion 12 Em­bed­ded reef chunks 13 Back strain 14 Whiplash

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