JUNE 9, 2018
We’re up at dark again and on our way to the beach. Coffin is blasting Pennywise with O’leary behind the wheel cutting the misty fog of the pre-dawn on the main island. It’s been a week and we’ve only surfed twice, so we’ve decided to extend the trip another week to see the next swell through.
The wind is calm today, but the beach break is walled, so we check out the far side of the beach where the land stretches to form a kelp-filled point. An iron cross rests on top of a small hill as a memorial for four men that died in battle on the Royal Navy ship, “HMS Fearless”, during the war. The first set rises and folds into a tapering barrel across the shelf before fading onto a bull-kelp-covered inside reef. Drastic tidal swings cause the conditions to change with every set, and after an hour of tubes the wave disappeared completely on the low tide. We have no clue if anyone has ever surfed this break before, but we now know that it needs a high tide to work. With a new swell on the way, we just might get to put that knowledge to use.