JUNE 9, 2018

Surfer - - Contents -

We’re up at dark again and on our way to the beach. Cof­fin is blast­ing Pen­ny­wise with O’leary be­hind the wheel cut­ting the misty fog of the pre-dawn on the main is­land. It’s been a week and we’ve only surfed twice, so we’ve de­cided to ex­tend the trip an­other week to see the next swell through.

The wind is calm to­day, but the beach break is walled, so we check out the far side of the beach where the land stretches to form a kelp-filled point. An iron cross rests on top of a small hill as a me­mo­rial for four men that died in bat­tle on the Royal Navy ship, “HMS Fear­less”, dur­ing the war. The first set rises and folds into a ta­per­ing bar­rel across the shelf be­fore fad­ing onto a bull-kelp-cov­ered in­side reef. Dras­tic tidal swings cause the con­di­tions to change with ev­ery set, and af­ter an hour of tubes the wave dis­ap­peared com­pletely on the low tide. We have no clue if any­one has ever surfed this break be­fore, but we now know that it needs a high tide to work. With a new swell on the way, we just might get to put that knowl­edge to use.

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