By Jennifer Biggs/
ONE AND ONLY BBQ & MORE isn’t new, but it has come under new ownership in the past few months, which gives it the bona fides it needs to round out a month of reviewing new or revamped barbecue restaurants around town.
By Memphis standards, One and Only is just a babe, anyway. It opened in 2007 at Poplar and Kirby, skirting the Memphis and Germantown border.
As befits its location, the meat served at One and Only is a bit different from the gritty, pit-smoked urban and the heavily smoked rural barbecue of the area. There’s smoke, but it’s generally light — and there’s plenty of flavor here without that heaviness. This suburban helping of our city’s most popular dish is well seasoned, consistent, and, hey, it’s a nice little place, to boot.
The ribs are superb at One and Only — very meaty, very tender, very hearty. They meet the general description of being “very beefy,” except, of course, these are quite porky instead.
Oh, of course, there’s a lengthy list of the so- called right way to cook ribs and a longer list of ways not to do it. At One and