By Jen­nifer Biggs/

The Commercial Appeal - Go Memphis - - Go Eat -

ONE AND ONLY BBQ & MORE isn’t new, but it has come un­der new own­er­ship in the past few months, which gives it the bona fides it needs to round out a month of re­view­ing new or re­vamped bar­be­cue restau­rants around town.

By Mem­phis stan­dards, One and Only is just a babe, any­way. It opened in 2007 at Po­plar and Kirby, skirt­ing the Mem­phis and Ger­man­town bor­der.

As be­fits its lo­ca­tion, the meat served at One and Only is a bit dif­fer­ent from the gritty, pit-smoked ur­ban and the heav­ily smoked ru­ral bar­be­cue of the area. There’s smoke, but it’s gen­er­ally light — and there’s plenty of flavor here with­out that heav­i­ness. This sub­ur­ban help­ing of our city’s most pop­u­lar dish is well sea­soned, con­sis­tent, and, hey, it’s a nice lit­tle place, to boot.

The ribs are su­perb at One and Only — very meaty, very ten­der, very hearty. They meet the gen­eral de­scrip­tion of be­ing “very beefy,” ex­cept, of course, these are quite porky in­stead.

Oh, of course, there’s a lengthy list of the so- called right way to cook ribs and a longer list of ways not to do it. At One and

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