Armani’s soft silhouette
Giorgio Armani’s man for next season is a thinker and a traveler, in the image of William Burroughs.
A brimmed hat like Burroughs wore was a unifying device in the collection, giving definition to an otherwise soft silhouette.
Textures created an ethnic mood, suggesting journey. A pair of models strode the runway draped in blanket-like coats. They wore clingy knit tops with decorative North African geometric patterns along the collar and sleeves, which were tucked into loosefitting trousers that taper to an athletic knit ankle.
While the designer preferred a looser silhouette, vests that gently curved down the front gave some looks easy discipline, worn under a cardigan or on top of a pullover. The same curve was repeated
Kilt revival at DSquared2
The kilt has gotten a martial arts makeover at DSquared2.
Canadian designing twins Dean and Dan Caten creatively merged the traditional Scotsman’s uniform with the deep-pleated Japanese hakama, traditionally worn over a kimono, for a cultural mashup with a strong punk vibe.
The kilt was invariably worn over trousers, either knee- or ankle-length, and often was more of a flourish, with just half or one-quarter panel adding on elegant evening jackets with a Nehru collar, worn with velvet trousers that tapered to the ankle.
Colors were cool tones of blue and gray alongside Armani’s personal favorites, black and navy blue.