Hokkaido Scal­lops at Squeaky Bean

The Denver Post - - LIFE & CULTURE - by Justin De La Rosa, Spe­cial to The Den­ver Post Justin De La Rosa (de­la­din­ing@gmail.com) is a food writer for The Den­ver Post.

Fall dishes go beyond just spice and depth. Del­i­cate, but­tery and light can some­times be the bite that makes you feel the sea­son. The Hokkaido scal­lops ($24) at the Squeaky Bean down­town do ex­actly that, un­der the di­rec­tion of ex­ec­u­tive chef Dar­ren Pusateri.

Pusateri re­joined the Squeaky Bean fam­ily in Oc­to­ber af­ter a few years of stints and stages around Colorado and New York. With his ad­di­tion came a menu over­haul that main­tained the Squeaky Bean’s char­ac­ter while in­tro­duc­ing dishes that take a dif­fer­ent ap­proach to fall fla­vors.

The set of three large, seared but­tery scal­lops sits flush to one side of the plate, hug­ging its curve. A cel­ery mousse brings a light and creamy tex­ture while braised fen­nel and mar­ble pota­toes bring earthy notes and the bulky bite you’d want for a full au­tum­nal feel­ing.

The dish is rep­re­sen­ta­tive of what Pusateri set out to do when ap­proach­ing the menu change. “We want to put value on the plate,” he said. “You see scal­lop dishes some­times and they look nice but aren’t ful­fill­ing. This dish has a bit more to it, so you leave feel­ing full.”

While the scal­lop set may change with the sea­sons, din­ers at the Squeaky Bean can count on thought­ful and de­lec­ta­ble plates you’ll want to leave squeaky clean.

Justin De La Rosa, Spe­cial to The Den­ver Post

Hokkaido scal­lops at the Squeaky Bean em­body fall fla­vors with­out heavy spices.

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