Tur­key time

Fla­vor twists added to tra­di­tional dishes of Thanks­giv­ing Day

The Republican Herald - - FOOD - by louisa chu

What is a tra­di­tional Thanks­giv­ing din­ner now, nearly 400 years af­ter what his­to­ri­ans call The First Thanks­giv­ing? We think tur­key and sides, ex­cept the wild tur­keys then were noth­ing like the But­ter­balls now, or even what our grand­fa­thers may have brought home from their fac­tory jobs for our grand­moth­ers to cook.

That’s what my ma­ter­nal grand­fa­ther, the great Frank Hugh, did. But my grand­mother, Yok Ping let my Un­cle Eric roast the bird. He was Amer­i­can as all get-out and was even once crazily courted to be a young Chi­nese Elvis be­fore he joined the U.S. Army. But his Thanks­giv­ing tur­keys were rubbed with black bean and gar­lic sauce, then chopped up like Chi­na­town ducks. De­li­cious though dif­fer­ently tra­di­tional.

This year, af­ter quite frankly what’s been one of the most di­vi­sive years in our life­times, we wanted tra­di­tional Thanks­giv­ing recipes, with a nod to in­dige­nous and im­mi­grant fla­vors.

For the tur­key, I turned to our his­tory. Por­ing over a decade of recipe ar­chives, I was drawn to one of colum­nist Jean-Marie Brown­son’s recipes but swapped in maple syrup for the brown sugar, then added a fin­ish of smoked salt, for a kiss of sweet­ness and fire.

Tri­bune test kitchen chef Mark Gra­ham shares his recipe for crispy In­dian-spiced brus­sels sprouts. He thought­fully blanches what can be tough lit­tle bug­gers, be­fore roast­ing them un­til ten­der and in­tensely flavorful with fa­mil­iar fall spices. Gra­ham car­ries that warmth to this year’s cran­berry sauce, adding a whis­per of ever­green herb.

Plus I of­fer my own non-recipe recipe for roasted root veg­eta­bles sea­soned with a lazy vinai­grette, for fel­low plant-based feast­ers.

We give thanks for not only the har­vest, as our an­ces­tors did, but the hope to imag­ine a happy Thanks­giv­ing 400 years in the fu­ture where our best tra­di­tions en­dure.

CRAN­BERRY SAUCE

Prep: 2 min­utes; cook: 15 min­utes; makes: about 3 cups

De­vel­oped in the Tri­bune test kitchen by Mark Gra­ham.

1 pack­age (12 ounces) whole cran­ber­ries 1 cup or­ange juice 1/2 cup sugar 1 spring fresh rose­mary 1 tea­spoon ground co­rian­der 1 cin­na­mon stick 1/2 tea­spoon kosher salt Place all in­gre­di­ents in a medium saucepan. Bring to a sim­mer, stir­ring oc­ca­sion­ally, Cook un­til most cran­ber­ries have burst, about 15 min­utes. Re­move rose­mary sprig and cin­na­mon stick.

2. Re­move from heat. Cool to room tem­per­a­ture. Serve at room tem­per­a­ture, or chill overnight.

Nu­tri­tion in­for­ma­tion per 1/4 cup serv­ing: 55 calo­ries, 0 g fat, 0 g sat­u­rated fat, 0 mg choles­terol, 14 g car­bo­hy­drates, 11 g sugar, 0 g pro­tein, 81 mg sodium, 1 g fiber

ROAST TUR­KEY KISSED WITH MAPLE, SMOKE Prep: 45 min­utes; brine: 4 hours or overnight; cook: 3 hours; makes: 12 to 14 serv­ings 1 tur­key, 13 to 15 pounds 2/3 cup maple syrup 1/2 cup coarse (kosher) salt 1/2 cup bour­bon (op­tional) 1 ta­ble­spoon crushed red pep­per

1 large sweet onion, roughly chopped 1 bunch pars­ley Peanut oil Salt and black pep­per Pan sauce: Smoked salt Cider vine­gar Re­move any neck and giblets pack­ages from tur­key cav­ity.

For brine, add 2 cups hot wa­ter, maple syrup and salt to a food-safe con­tainer large enough to hold tur­key. Stir un­til syrup and salt dis­solve. Add 2 cups cold wa­ter and red pep­per. Care­fully place tur­key in brine. Add enough cool wa­ter to cover tur­key. Re­frig­er­ate at least 4 hours or overnight. Re­move tur­key from brine. Dis­card brine. Re­frig­er­ate tur­key up to 2 days.

For broth, put giblets and neck into a deep saucepan. Add about 3 cups cold wa­ter. Sim­mer, about 2 hours. Strain into a bowl. Re­move solids for snack­ing. Re­frig­er­ate broth for up to 3 days.

Heat oven to 375 de­grees. Place tur­key in large roast­ing pan, breast side up. Add some onion to tur­key neck cav­ity, close loose skin over and tuck wings un­der back. Add re­main­ing onion and pars­ley to body cav­ity; close loose skin.

Rub oil all over, then sea­son well with pep­per and salt. Care­fully pour 2 cups of broth into pan. Roast, 30 min­utes.

Re­duce oven tem­per­a­ture to 350 de­grees. Con­tinue roast­ing tur­key, turn­ing pan as needed for even brown­ing. Af­ter about 2 hours, in­sert ther­mome­ter into thick­est part of thigh but not touch­ing bone. When tur­key tem­per­a­ture reads 160 de­grees, in­crease oven tem­per­a­ture to 450 de­grees; roast un­til skin browns, about 10 min­utes.

Care­fully re­move tur­key to a cut­ting board; tent loosely with foil. Let stand about 15 min­utes; tem­per­a­ture will rise about 10 more de­grees, get­ting it above rec­om­mended safe tem­per­a­ture of 165 de­grees.

Mean­while, set roast­ing pan with pan juices di­rectly on burn­ers. Heat to a boil while scrap­ing up browned bits at bot­tom of pan. Re­move onion and pars­ley from tur­key. Care­fully blend into pan sauce with im­mer­sion blender, or chop well then add. Add re­main­ing broth only as needed. Re­duce un­til thick­ened as de­sired. Off heat, add bour­bon; sea­son with salt, pep­per and vine­gar to taste.

Serve tur­key with pan sauce, fin­ished with freshly ground black pep­per and smoked salt to taste.

Nu­tri­tion in­for­ma­tion per serv­ing (for 14 serv­ings): 507 calo­ries, 17 g fat, 5 g sat­u­rated fat, 276 mg choles­terol, 9 g car­bo­hy­drates, 74 g pro­tein, 579 mg sodium, 1 g fiber ROASTED ROOT VEG­ETA­BLES WITH LAZY VINAI­GRETTE Prep: 25 min­utes; cook: 45 min­utes; makes: 12 serv­ings

2 pounds car­rots, mul­ti­col­ored if avail­able peeled, sliced length­wise

2 pounds parsnips, kohlrabi, or both, peeled, sliced length­wise

2 pounds small pota­toes, skin on Peanut oil Kosher salt Black pep­per Cider vine­gar Whole grain Di­jon mus­tard Flat leaf pars­ley, stems chopped, leaves torn for serv­ing

Heat oven to 425 de­grees. Add veg­eta­bles but not car­rot greens to rimmed bak­ing sheet. Coat with oil, sea­son well with salt and pep­per, and toss to mix well. Roast, about 30 min­utes. Add car­rot greens; toss. Add oil as needed. Roast un­til veg­eta­bles are ten­der and greens are crisped, about 15 min­utes more.

Re­move from oven. Cool slightly. Sea­son with salt, pep­per, vine­gar and mus­tard to taste. Toss with pars­ley, then serve.

Nu­tri­tion in­for­ma­tion per serv­ing: 174 calo­ries, 4 g fat, 1 g sat­u­rated fat, 0 mg choles­terol, 33 g car­bo­hy­drates, 8 g sugar, 3 g pro­tein, 571 mg sodium, 6 g fiber

ChiCago Tri­bune

Thanks­giv­ing tur­key, styled by Mark Gra­ham, adds sweet­ness and a touch of fire with the in­gre­di­ents of smoked sale and maple syrup.

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