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The Signal - - HOME - Robert LAMOUREUX


My name is James B. and I am re­do­ing my large pa­tio cover that has six posts, each 6”x 6”.

I once read that you put some sort of metal down so that the posts are away from the con­crete and any stand­ing wa­ter, pre­vent­ing what I cur­rently have - rot­ted wood due to wet ar­eas.

Un­for­tu­nately I am not fa­mil­iar with what these would be called, and am hop­ing you can en­lighten me prior to this project.

I un­der­stand that I need to sup­port the cover while chang­ing out these posts, but since this is go­ing to be quite the un­der­tak­ing, I’d like to use the top qual­ity ma­te­ri­als dur­ing re­place­ment so that I can get the long­est

life out of the re­pairs.


The brack­ets that you are re­fer­ring to are called stand-off-brack­ets.

On an ex­ist­ing pa­tio you will use retro­fit bracket, which is a plate that you’ll in­stall by cor­ing into the ground, adding an ex­pand­able an­chor and then mount­ing the bot­tom plate to the ground.

There is then a cover plate that goes over that, much like a lid. This has a set of brack­ets on it to which you’ll mount your new post.

This set up is what you need to keep your posts from the ground, not too com­pli­cated but def­i­nitely will aid in giv­ing you the long­est life out of your new ma­te­ri­als.

Do use cau­tion dur­ing this project by se­cur­ing your cover with proper sup­port while re­plac­ing one post at a time.

You can get these brack­ets at your lo­cal big box store, and once you see it this will all make per­fect sense, as it sounds like you are pretty well versed.

Some­thing to con­sider, for a clean fin­ished look, is to use 2” x 8”, us­ing beveled edges to cre­ate a “skirt” or box, to go around the bot­tom and cover up the bracket and bolts.

There are many dif­fer­ent op­tions to do­ing this. If you’re handy you can come up with some­thing nice to cover up the brack­ets. Make sure though, that you miter this and give it an an­gle so that it does not sit flat and col­lect wa­ter.

Seal the top well, us­ing a ure­thane based caulk­ing, for the best seal. I rec­om­mend Sika Flex, and prime your ar­eas well with two coats prior to paint­ing to match, and paint with two coats also.

The prep work on a project like this is as im­por­tant as the safety is­sues, in or­der to give your new ma­te­ri­als the best chance at a long life. Good luck with this project; it’ll be a good one for you.


I live in Canyon Coun­try. The house has old win­dows with a sealant on them that is so cracked and dry it looks like the glass may fall out. What can I do about this?

What is this sealant, how is it re­moved and reap­plied? I’m some­what handy but need some guid­ance on a project like this, please.

– Mike M.

What you’re re­fer­ring to is win­dow glaz­ing putty.

To re­move this, you’ll need a good and sharp chisel with a small but ef­fec­tive ham­mer.

Keep in mind that you’ll be do­ing this against glass, so wear all of the proper safety gear so that you are ad­e­quately pro­tected in case of bro­ken glass. Even the best of tech­ni­cians can ac­ci­den­tally break a win­dow, so please take pre­cau­tions.

These are wooden sash win­dows so you’ll also want to be care­ful to not dam­age your wood.

First, take a look at an area of putty that seems to still be in OK con­di­tion and make note of the look, and the an­gle that this is in­stalled. Take a photo if nec­es­sary, so you can cir­cle back to that once you are ready to re in­stall.

Tap only as firmly as nec­es­sary to chisel out the old glaz­ing putty. You’ll find lit­tle metal points on the in­side; these are there to hold the glass in place. Be sure that all of these are present as some­times when you’re re­mov­ing the glaz­ing they will come out and will need to be re­placed.

The metal points and the new glaz­ing putty that you’ll need are both avail­able at the big box stores.

Once the win­dows are cleared of the putty, cleaned and se­cured with points, then you’ll take the new putty and roll it into a tube, then ap­ply it to the new area.

Make sure that you ap­ply the putty at ap­prox­i­mately a 45 de­gree an­gle, like what you saw be­fore you took out the old. The rea­son that this is ap­plied at an an­gle is to keep the wa­ter from sit­ting on this area. The an­gle will di­rect any mois­ture to roll off and not al­low it to sit.

You can al­ways use YouTube to watch an in­stall, it can re­ally help.

You’ll need to let this dry 24 hours and then tape the area off very well, in or­der to pro­tect the win­dows so you can prime and then paint two coats.

This is all a very time con­sum­ing project, but by do­ing it on your own you’ll save your­self a ton of money. And, the good thing is that you don’t have to do this all in one week­end. You can do one win­dow at a time, over a pe­riod of months if nec­es­sary.

It is worth the la­bor, and def­i­nitely worth the sav­ings do­ing it on your own. Good luck to you.

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