If you go

The Washington Post Sunday - - TRAVEL - — J.B. For the au­thor’s full list of Por­tu­gal rec­om­men­da­tions, visit wash­ing­ton­post.com/travel

WHERE TO STAY Vale do Ninho Na­ture Houses Fer­raria de Sao Joao, Penela, Coim­bra 011-351-919-048-373


Three sim­ple ren­o­vated stone cot­tages make for scenic-butafford­able con­tem­po­rary ac­com­mo­da­tions for the whole fam­ily. The prop­erty is pet-friendly and highly eco-con­scious, wel­com­ing cy­clists and of­fer­ing bi­cy­cles for use dur­ing a guest’s stay. Cot­tages from $127 for two, in­clud­ing break­fast.

Cerdeira Vil­lage

3200-509 Lousa 011-351-239-994-621


Ev­ery cot­tage in this car-free vil­lage show­cases the work of a dif­fer­ent artist in keep­ing with that cot­tage’s theme. One of th­ese, Casa das Es­te­rias, like some of the other seven ac­com­mo­da­tions, boasts a wide bal­cony over­look­ing the ver­dant val­ley. Cot­tages from $74 for two, in­clud­ing break­fast.

WHERE TO EAT Varanda do Casal Casal de Sao Si­mao 011-351-236-628-304 varan­dado­casal.com/vis­ite.html This sun-filled sec­ond floor res­tau­rant spe­cial­izes in care­fully pre­pared tra­di­tional dishes, such as roasted young goat served with chest­nuts and de­lec­ta­ble lo­cal pota­toes ($18 for two to share). Many dishes are cooked in the wood oven, in­clud­ing the scrump­tious or­ange tart driz­zled with dark choco­late ($3).

D. Ses­nando Rua de Coim­bra, Penela 011-351-239-561-207


This con­tem­po­rary res­tau­rant has an im­pres­sive wine col­lec­tion, with some 400 va­ri­eties of red. The lo­cal cheese (Raba­cal), served warm with honey ($5), is a treat as is the share­able main course, cat­a­plana de marisco, which is chock-full of shell­fish in a spicy sauce ($28). Save room for the mousse duo: pineap­ple, and

wal­nut made with lo­cal nuts (each $3).

WHAT TO DO A2Z Ad­ven­tures Rua das Oliveiras 53, Leiria 011-351-9111 222 93 a2z-ad­ven­tures.com/en Among the many Schist Vil­lage tours of­fered are bi­cy­cling and walk­ing ad­ven­tures that ap­peal to ev­ery­one, from en­durance cy­clists to leisure walk­ers who pre­fer to base out of one vil­lage. Tours can be guided or self-guided and in­clude van sup­port. Pack­ages in­clud­ing trans­fers, lodg­ing, ac­tiv­i­ties start at $722 for a self­guided week based on dou­ble­room oc­cu­pancy.



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