If you go
WHERE TO STAY Hotel Oscar 106 Rue Voltaire 011-33-2-35-42-39-77 hotel-oscar.fr An affordable, 1950s-themed hotel facing Le Volcan, a city landmark. Rooms starting at around $70. WHERE TO EAT Le Bouchon Normand 77 Rue Louis Brindeau 011-33-9-52-15-23-73 bouchon-normand.fr Terroir-driven cuisine featuring local vegetables and meats from Normandy. The fixed-price menus ($15 for lunch, $25 for a threecourse dinner) are a great deal. WHAT TO DO Abbaye de Graville Rue de l’Abbaye 011-33-2-35-24-51-00 wapo.st/AbbayedeGraville Even before this graceful Romanesque abbey was built on a hilltop in the 11th century, the site was a place of pilgrimage for early Christians. It’s now a museum. Tickets around $5. Hours vary by season.